Brogans.....Smooth or Rough?

[jacifus]

I am purchasing a new pair of Brogans, and was offered a choice of smooth leather or rough........Could someone tell me which is more authentic? I want to make the correct decision, based on authenticity.

Thanks!:)

[Curt-Heinrich Schmidt]

Hallo!

Neither... ;) :)

NUG, (Normally, Usually, Generally), typically the army shoe uppers were made of Chestnut Oak tanned "waxed leather" that was the flesh side of the hide out, it having been treated in the production process with applications of tallow, oil, and beeswax to make a supple but somewhat durable and water resistant upper leather (and holding polish/blackenng without scratching).
Original army shoes tend to have an outer appearance of slight "texture" without being totally or perfectly smooth, or as rough and fuzzy as some repro shoes.

Curt

[Officer Lightoller]

Jaye,
In my experience, most US brogan were rough-side out. For dress occasions, smooth-side out is acceptable. You should probably break into them to let them have the right texture as Schmidt had described. I hope this helps.

Brendan Macie
aka 2nd Officer Lightoller

[Garrett Silliman]

Jaye,

As stated by Mr. Schmidt, the texture of the leather and its appearance is a result of the period process of tanning and application of materials - not wear, as stated by the last post. Boots/shoes would have been polished as needed with a mixture the same application as Curt describes above. What you are lookign for are shoes featuring "waxed-flesh" uppers - not smooth or rough out. If you are looking for a pair of period correct shoes they should be made using a period process/techniques and materials. For more information on period brogans contact Robert Serio at MO Boot and Shoe - he's an approved AC vendor and loves to talk shoes http://www.missouribootandshoe.com.
If you are looking for a correct pair of period footwear I would stongly urge you to purchase your footwear from him. Good luck, Garrett

[Kevin O'Beirne]

In my experience, most US brogan were rough-side out. For dress occasions, smooth-side out is acceptable.

Being how I'm in agreement with Heinrich Schmidt on this one, I'd be interested in some citations or more evidence to back up the statements quoted just above.

[FranklinGuardsNYSM]

Lots of accounts of soldiers being made to blacken their shoes and belts for inspection, but, yeah...what Kevin said. Even in the excess-laden XI Corps, I've yet to read anything resembling "got slickered up in my Class A's, with my dress pair of shoes..." in period writings.

[Silas]

I recall a quote attributed to Gen. Lee who believe the practice of making brogans rough side out was abhorant to nature. The roughness wicks water into the shoe much quicker than if shoes are smoothside out. When I entered the hobby years ago, I made sure to order my brogans smoothside out. Fast forward many years and my present practice is to just order brogans. I get issued what the maker has in stock. My last couple pairs were roughside out. With enough shoe grease rubbed into them, it's hard to tell if they are roughside or smoothside out.

[onemoreb]

Correct Jefferson bootees are always made of waxed flesh. With some work they can be made to appear nearly as smooth as any smooth-out shoe. Beeswax and neatsfoot oil compounds work best for this purpose. Check out the MO Boot and Shoe web site or contact Robert by e-mail or phone. He will be glad to let you know what ever you want to know.

[Craig L Barry]

Abner Small wrote in his diary (The Road to Richmond) "His army brogans, nothing can ever make shine or even black." I could be reading into that passage a little too much, but it does not sound as though the Federal bootees were either smooth or shiny.