How should I remove Canteen Rust?

[Morgan's raider]

In an effort to upgrade my impression, i have recently sold my stainless steel canteen and purchased a tin canteen that is about 20 years old....It has a very nice patina on the brackets and spout and the wool covering is faded and worn.

There is no rust in the canteen after visual inspection and after letting it sit with water in it, the water is not rust colored. My question is how can I get rid of the tin taste... I have cleaned it with baking soda and water and have also put vinegar and water in it.. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[Amtmann]

My question is how can I get rid of the tin taste

You're not... it's made of tin. :rolleyes:

[Travelin Cornfed]

Add bourbon.

Lather, rinse, repeat.

[Stonewall_Greyfox]

I would advise against putting anything other than water/bleach/iodine inside a canteen. If you put vinegar in your canteen, this will only encourage corrosion by increasing the rate at which your metal oxidizes; and I've known several friends who put spirits in their canteens only to have it haunt them for as long as they have used it.

I would tend to agree that tin canteens will always have a tin/semi-metallic taste, and there is nothing you can do about this. If you don't want that taste invest in a wood canteen.

Paul B. Boulden Jr.

RAH VA MIL '04

[toptimlrd]

I don't get a tin taste in my canteen. Is yours lined with beeswax? (mine is) Perhaps a beeswax lining would do the trick.

[Charles Heath]

I don't get a tin taste in my canteen. Is yours lined with beeswax? (mine is) Perhaps a beeswax lining would do the trick.

Robert, in a tin canteen is this a CW era practice, or a modern reenactorism?

The world awaits your answer. :)

[Morgan's raider]

Gentlemen, thank you for the information. I think what I was trying to say is that there was a "stale' taste to the water, and that was probably from the canteen sitting so long without use. He said it had been several years without having water in ti.

I did put some vinegar in the water and let it sit over night, and gladly it seems that the stlaeness is no longer there.

Now I will store it with the stoppper out, and I believe that will prevent corrosion.

[Marc]

To help prevent corosion at the end of an event and when I get home, I wash the canteen out with hot water and roll a paper towel and stick it in the spout. Hang upside down overnight and the paper towel acts a water wick and draws the moisture out. Pull the paper towel out and store with the spout open. I have had two canteens for years and no problems using this method.

[Morgan's raider]

Thanks Marc, great piece of advice.

[Shockoe Hill Cats]

I don't get a tin taste in my canteen. Is yours lined with beeswax? (mine is) Perhaps a beeswax lining would do the trick.

Well, since we're talking about an issue that applies to me, does the beeswax approach stop already pre-existant corrosion? I recently noticed after dumping some excess water down the white sink that there was rust mixed in.

We've discussed what to do WITHOUT rust coloured water but what to do about rust water?? Mr. Riddell, do you think your method will help me now?

Thanks friends,

[NC1862]

To help prevent corosion at the end of an event and when I get home, I wash the canteen out with hot water and roll a paper towel and stick it in the spout. Hang upside down overnight and the paper towel acts a water wick and draws the moisture out. Pull the paper towel out and store with the spout open. I have had two canteens for years and no problems using this method.

This is what I do after an event and have had no problems using this method. You might want to line the canteen with beeswax. It helps keep the canteen from corroding.

[H. L. Hanger]

Water in a canteen??? Water!!!! Why, I believe it was General Fields who once said that, "Fish fornicate in water!" Buttermilk is a much better choice to carry in your canteen. You can find it at any dwelling you may pass whilst on the march!

[toptimlrd]

Robert, in a tin canteen is this a CW era practice, or a modern reenactorism?

The world awaits your answer. :)

Charles,

I truly have not done that research for myself :o , but the canteen did come from an approved vendor here on the AC and most of the people who I do deem as having more expertise on the subject than I have assured me that this is still period correct. If this is incorrect I apologize for my ignorance on this particular piece of equippage. At least I didn't tell him to go back to stainless and that nobody can tell the difference:eek:

[HOG.EYE.MAN]

Take care of your canteen before and after each event to prevent rust. Keep in mind, no matter how good you take care of your canteen, you'll see rusty water now and then. If your canteen is too rusty and you're having major trouble, buy a new canteen. (Without beezwax) Trust me.

A couple years ago, I was using a canteen from 1985, and I had major rust problems. I did the best I could before and after each event to keep it from rusting too much. During a certain event, one of the rust areas of the canteen sprung a leak, and all my water ran out. Thank God I was able to borrow a canteen from a friend who brought two. The event was Pickett's Mill 2004, and those of you who were there, knows it would have been very hard to participate without your own canteen. The point is, take care of your stuff..... You never know when something will fail out in the field, and it could be something important like a canteen. We all have to be able to go back to work and school Monday morning, so take care of yourself.

[Charles Heath]

Okay, we've had enough complaints about this thread that is has been relocated to The Sinks from Camp of Instruction, and locked down. Unfortunately, the forum software does not provide for a button whereby such threads can be instantly moved to the mainstream forum, but let me dispense a couple of nuggets as a gesture of kindness and goodwill:

1. Vinegar in a tin clad vessel. Acid removes tin. Vinegar is acid. Mr. Wizard and Jimmy can demonstrate this safety with zinc at home. Take a galvanized (hot dip or electroplated) bolt, nut, or washer, and place it in a few ounces of household vinegar for about ten days. Notice the zinc is gone? As a parallel, think about who this applies to tin inside your canteen.

2. Canteen maintenance. Not all canteens are built alike. The original bullseye canteen I use from time to time still holds water. A famous maker tin drum canteen sprang a leak within 5 years of purchase. These things happen. What to do? See part 3.

3. Part 3 - Reading is fundamental. Bill Christen, Bartleby the Scrivener, and the folks at The Watchdawg are cranking out copies of the Columbia Rifles Research Compendium #2 (CRRC-2) as we speak. Bartleby is wearing out new old stock Jos. Gillott #4o4 nibs by the case lot. In the first version of the CRRC, the "how to maintain your canteen" section was included in Article III.3 "Cleaning and Maintenance of Uniforms & Equipment" by Perfesser Tobey. In the CRRC-2 it is Article III.16, and I strongly suggest folks who are in groups where it is painfully obvious every corporal and sergeant have been struck dead or otherwise rendered mute and deaf to buy a copy.

Wonderful link here:

http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7250

In the interest of full disclosure, I'm also a member of the CRs, and dang thankful this world has people in it who would put their time and energies into such a publication.

Now, get out there and read, or you won't be getting any pie.

Me, book pimp, and annoying Internet pundit,

[csaswb]

I am sorry if this is a repeat question but, I would like to know exactly how do I beeswax line a canteen (smooth side) I am trying to do two things: One is preserve it and make it last longer and two cover the tin taste if possible. Have used the search articles several ways and gotten several articels sugesting beeswax but no real instructions on how. Can I hack off a peice of a beeswax candel remove the wick drop it in and add heat turning several times while cooling off? I realize that this may be a goofy question but I had to ask. Thanks for your replies.

Pvt. Paul Lutz
Co H 33rd Va Inf.

[jgr1974]

Sounds like it would work, but try this! Heat the wax in a glass jar. A disposable one is best, because the residue is hard to remove. Heat the jar in the microwave until a liquid form. It may take a few minutes depending on how much you use. When removing, careful it is hot! Pour melted wax in spout swish around, and pour out excess. This may take a couple of times to full coat it.

Hope this helps!

The Mad Mick!!!

[Rebbeh]

best ways i found, was to use a gas powered stove (but this is also dangerous, as if you do it wrong, you'll burn your house down!), or to be outside and use a fire that way. what you do, is use a skillet, and heat it up without the candle in it. make it warm, but not super duper hot. put the candle in, and see how much it melts, and keep "swirling" the wax that melts off. remember though, that beeswax is flammable, so you don't want the pan TOO hot. don't even set it on the burner for that matter. heat it ABOVE the fire/coil or whatever once the candle is in. melt the candle a little, and then remove the pan from the heat, and let it cool just a bit, so as not to overdue it and burn off your face! when the candle is all melted, remove the wic while the wax is still melted. now, put it back in the fire for a few seconds to get it hotter, then pour it into your canteen quickly. use a funnel. trust me. now, it's in there, quickly put in your cork, and shake the bejeebus out of the wax, making sure to coat the entire canteen by spinning it on its side, and holding it upside down. then remove the cork, and pour out whatever wax is still in there. do not let the wax puddle and cool inside the canteen. once it's poured out, simply hold it upright, and blow some cool air into your canteen. a little is all it takes. let it sit for like, 30 minutes.

you should be good to go.

[PogueMahone]

Paul,

I'd like to know why you want to do this? Do you have any primary documentation that shows that issued tin canteens were lined with wax? Any anecdotal reference from a diary that soldiers waxed their canteens? Have you ever seen an original that was waxed? A dug canteen with wax remnants inside?

Waxing your canteen is not authentic.

For anyone that wants to wax their canteen, please, God, do not do what has been suggested above. Get a block of wax and use a double boiler to melt on the stove, just like you would chocolate. If your wife waxes her body hair, ask for her help ... with melting the wax, not your body hair. Unless you like that sort of thing.

[1stMaine]

Comrades,

I've gotta go with Joe on this one. there is no reason to "wax" your canteen. It wasn't done then, and there's no reason now to do it.

If you clean your canteen correctly, and dry it out properly, then rust will not form. If you simply toss in a spoonful of baking soda with a half-canteen's worth of water, swish it around, and then pour it out , rinse and repeat, the water will taste fresh and clean.

Do yoursel;f a favour and learn how to clean and dry a canteen. Leave the waxing to the ladies. Besides, if all else fails, remember that rust is good for your bowels.......

Respects,

[Rob]

My canteen is nearly three seasons old. No beeswax, and the only rust is a bit where the two halves meet. All that's needed is a little care.

When in use, keep it as nearly full as possible. No air = no rust.

When you get home from an outing:

1. Dump most of the water out, leaving about half a cup or so inside. Using a small spoon or funnel, put about a tablespoon of baking soda in. Slosh this mixture around and pour it out. Shake out as much of the water as you can. (Make sure you hold the cork securely, so that it does not hit you in the face.)

2. Pull the sling through the bottom keepers and hang it upside-down to drain out any standing water. A cotton towel or a piece of an old shirt jammed into the spout will help to wick the water away.

3. After an hour or so, remove the wick and let it air-dry. Hanging it by an open window will help. A sunny open window is even better.

4. If you live in an area where there are a lot of wasps or hornets, don't hang it outside the house, or you may find some unwanted guests inside. ;)

[jacifus]

Well, after pulling both of my tin drum canteens from storage, nasty flakes of BLACK rust keep coming out of my canteens....(Yes I rinsed them with baking soda) they have been in storage for two years....Anybody have any ideas how to remove the rust from inside?:eek:

[reddcorp]

Think this has been gone over before, but, I use fine gravel, the type you use in a fish tank, pour some into the canteen along with hot water, and vigourously swish it around a bit....repeat...repeat....etc. Then put a twisted paper towel as a wick into the spout, and leave upside down for a while until the canteen dries out.

A.W.Redd

[jacifus]

Thanks....

I will give it a try!:)

[federal_musician]

I kept a plastic bag of sand in my CW gear box, and used it in the same manner.

Best way is not to get any in the first place. I have developed a canteen "drying stand" by getting a quarter inch dowell about 12" long and a piece of old blacket with a small hole in it. I stick the dowell upright between two (or more) items that are tight together, then push the piece of blanket down over the hole. On your way home, place the already emptied canteen on the dowell, and any water residue will flow down onto the blanket, giving you a dry canteen when you unload your gear.


Fran Long
Brigade Brass Band

[YoungCampaigner]

Hello All. I agree with Mr. Long on this one. I always use a hair dryer to get the moisture out of my canteen after an event. It works pretty well. You just have to be careful not to let it go too long or you might melt the solder on your canteen.

Sincerely,
William Chapman
40th Va. Infantry, Co. B
and
Signal Corps of the James
http://www.theyoungcampaigner.com

[Prodical Reb]

I used a product called naval jelly.! CAUTION!! THIS IS AN ACID WEAR PROPER PROTECTIVE GEAR, RUBBER GLOVES, FACE SHIELD OR GOGGLES AND RUBBER SMOCK. Wally world has it. It's intended purpose is to clean rusty metal. I poured this into the canteen plugged the end with my finger and swished it around to coat the inside. Let the acid work for a little while (depending on the amount or rust) or a longer while; rinse, check, repeat as neccasary. When finished, rinse with a neutralizer like baking soda and rinse again. Dry then coat with bees wax. It's like a new canteen on the inside