Examining Repro Buttonholes (CS)

[LibertyHallVols]

Hello!

This is the companion thread to the examination of buttonholes on original CS garments (http://authentic-campaigner.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14698).

RULE #1 for this thread:
Do not post the name of the maker of any item unless YOU MADE IT!!!!! I will delete your post with a vengence!!!!! I want this discussion to focus on the item, not the maker. I don't want to cloud anyone's views with brand names.

So, feel free to post pics of buttonholes on repro CS garments or ask questions or give critiques/observations/constructive feedback of pics that others have posted.

Let's keep it constructive.

OK... I'll get things going... gather those rotten tomatoes... here's two garments that I made this year.

[ElizabethClark]

Those qualify as "quite nice" in my book, John. The stitching, particularly on the brown version, is dense enough to cover the fabric entirely, without looking crowded. You managed the reinforcement/stabilization well, and your tensioning well, because the hole is quite straight, and not bowed out along the legs. Stitching depth is tidy, and looks to be well-suited to the fabric weaves (deep enough to be stable, not so deep as to "stand out" during use.)

[Marc29thGA]

I'll take a stab - here is a button hole on a CS frock I made this fall:

[Timg152005]

Here was my stab to to hand sewn buttonholes. http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m241/timg152005/Civil%20war%20pictures/S6300169.jpg

Here is the link to the entire garment.
http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13073&highlight=blood+sweat+tear

[rbruno]

John, yours look good. I was hoping to get some feedback on mine from the shirt I posted in the other thread. I guess I will just have to read what others are saying about the ones posted in this thread. The ones posted so far look great. Marc, yours bring up a question I have asked others that have studied period garments and sewing techniques and get different answers. It looks like you doubled your thread when sewing. Meaning you threaded the needle and matched the two ends of the tread so you were sewing with essentially two threads. I have ask people what was the common practice of the tailors/seamstress of the period. Did they double the thread when they sewed. Again, I have had different answers. If anyone has an idea of what was the more common practice, I would be interested.
Rob Bruno
1st MD Cav

[Marc29thGA]

Rob,

I wish I had a better answer for you, I do not remember where I read/heard about it, but tried it and it did work well on Jean Cloth. So, that’s part of my reason for sharing, to get some critique and more knowledge in my head too - to do the right/correct thing.

Or is it like you mention, there are a couple different methods, either one being correct. A few months back there was a great thread here on stitches per inch and which method of counting stitches per inch was common (visible, or visible + non visible). I enjoyed and learned from that.

Looking forward to what Ms. Clark or one of the other great sewers/tailors on the AC can offer for us budding seamstresses…

Kindest regards,

[ElizabethClark]

Really, the best bits of advice I can give on buttonholes are:

1: Reinforce the hole before cutting. Going around your hole position with a very short running stitch, making a little rectangle, and then going around a second time, filling in the "gaps" in the stitching--or else, using a short back stitch to reinforce the position, really helps to stabilize the long sides, and prevent a bowed-out "round" hole.

2: Watch your tension. Drawing too tightly on a non-reinforced edge makes it bow out, and you get an oval or "round" hole rather than a straight-leg one. (Now, some originals have the same problem, as not everyone in the period was perfect! :) )

3: Don't Use "Button" thread. "Button" thread, found in sewing shops, is for sewing buttons onto upholstery. It is *not* buttonHOLE thread. :) Buttonhole twist is a lightly 2-plied thread that spreads out flat as you sew, giving better coverage to the buttonhole. It can also be hard to find. If you can't find buttonhole twist, use plain old sewing cotton; a very light waxing helps prevent tangles in the thread.

[LibertyHallVols]

I'll take a stab - here is a button hole on a CS frock I made this fall:

Marc,
Not much I can add to Elizabeth's comments. Looks like a pretty good effort. Your stitches are evenly spaced both from each other and the distance from the hole. The thread looks like a heavier thread, though... what is it?

Paul,
The hole looks like it really opened up during sewing. How are you cutting the hole? The instructions posted by CJ Daley have really been my "bible" for sewing buttonholes. One of the valuable nuggets in there is the recommendation of using wood chisels to cut the holes. You get a really clean cut that way, helping ensure they hole stays a "slit", rather than opening up. Most of my buttonholes that appear more open now are due to use, rather than construction.

Thanks, folks!

[Marc29thGA]

John,

It is a thread similar to the Hy-Mark 16-4 on those button holes. I have also used #12 by Sulky (100% cotton type) in past projects.

I also just started using CJ Daley’s chisel method and do like the results. Definitely a cleaner cut than the seam ripper/scissor method.

Take care,

[ElizabethClark]

Using a nice sharp wood chisel is likely less expensive than buying the "looks like a wood chisel, but called a buttonhole chisel at double the price" tool from a sewing shop. :)

[27thNCdrummer]

Mr. Wickett,
Could you possibly post Daley's instructions here? I would love to take a look at them.
Thanks,

[Marc29thGA]

Andrew,

Mr. Daley just recently re-posted these instructions here:
http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14698&highlight=buttonholes&page=2

There are also a couple buttonhole articles in the "Research Article" section.

Kindest Regards,

[Ian M.]

Mr. Daley's re-post is a huge help!

One question: how was button hole spacing -- top to bottom -- typically done? Did the patterns of the day have buttonholes in the template? Was it strictly by eye-balling the garment with the number of holes needed in mind, or was it generally a more calculated, measured out affair (in the absence of a template off of a pattern)? I know many approaches were probably done, but any comments on frequency, techniques, etc.?

[LibertyHallVols]

Here's a good site for looking at the buttonhole stitch itself.
http://www.ushist.com/general-information/stitch.htm

A lot of folks do the blanket stitch by mistake (also shown on the website). Although the two are similar, they are not the same. So, be sure you are doing the right stitch. I was doing this wrong until about 2000.

[Marc29thGA]

Good one John, I had forgotten that link.

Here is another with lots of sewing infromation:

http://www.vintagesewing.info/19th/1892-sn/sn-toc-long.html

Merry Christmas!!

[KCLoewe]

To comment about the buttonhole chisel, I have found that you need to make sure the chisel is kept sharp and that the wood you use to cut into (underside of hole) has to not have any cuts in it. And what I mean by that is make sure the chisel is going down into a spot on the wood that does not have a cut in it already. If you go into another cut you won't always cut all the fibers and then have to deal with stragglers. Also, make sure you press down hard and actually cut the fabric. Once used to it (which doesn't take long) you can feel when this happens.
Merry Christmas

[LibertyHallVols]

Nick,

Very good points! I think there are folks out there that just want "a nice jacket" and want to take a crack at it themselves.

What you mention, if I understand correctly, really takes reproduction clothing to the next level, where the 21st Century maker studies an original garment and tries to understand the process used by the 19th Century maker in order to make a true "Replica" (if I am applying that term correctly). So, yes, one should not be using the same techniques to make a buttonhole for a RD jacket, a civilian vest, or an officer's frock.

I wish I had the time to truly study period techniques of pattern making, contstruction, etc. However, I just sew in my spare time for enjoyment (and it saves more than a little dough). For me, I find that I always know more at the end of a project than I did at the beginning... sometimes leaving me wishing I could just start the whole darned thing over!

Good points... Good post.

[Bill]

Ladies and Gentlemen,

I've made some buttonholes for my own uniforms and have always had the same problem. When I start stitching the hole, I have trouble getting the first knot to fall along the edge of the hole. For some reason, that first knot wants to form where the needle comes through the cloth. What am I doing wrong?

[Marc29thGA]

Bill,

How are you pulling on the needle and thread?

Not that I am an expert, but pull it away from the edge of the slit (on the same plane)when the needle clears the fabric, not towards you.

Hope this little suggestion helps.

Kindest Regards,

[rbrewer]

Here are button holes from 2 repro jackets I have.
I would appreciate feedback/ comments on them.
This is a great topic.
Thank you
Bob Brewer