Appropriate Times to Wear Jean Cloth

[27thNCdrummer]

Pards,
I have an event coming up that is a very early war militia event (April, 1861). I'll be wearing civilian clothing so I was wondering, would it be correct to have an upper-middle class young man wearing a jean cloth vest and trousers? Also, which would be more correct to be wearing, a sack coat, or an over shirt as early war militia?
Thanks,

[Hardtack Herring]

Upper middle class folk would not wear slave cloth...... I would rule out the jean cloth unless you decide to be a poor dirt farmer.

[Iceman]

It depends. If you have no company uniform and are stepping out in your own clothing, then I agree with Paul. However, this is not to say that militia and early volunteers did not wear jean. In Louisiana and Mississippi there were some pre-war militia companies that decided to adopt new uniforms that were tough and would hold up to campaigning, rather than their fancy, fine woolen uniforms that they would parade around town in.

But, besides jean, another fabric source that is not used enough in this hobby is that of linsey-woolsey. I've come across many pre and early war companies described as wearing linsey, which is a clear distinction between this and jean cloth, of which the civilians of the day knew the difference. As late as early '64 there were uniforms being made in Columbus, Mississippi made from both "jean" and "linsey". A few Louisiana companies wore linsey-woolsey uniforms, and these were sons of wealthy planters.

Nic Clark

[Duff]

If you were an upper-middle class citizen and could afford to wear confortable clothing, why would you want to wear itchy, unconfortable jean?

[Cogden3]

I agree with Duff and Hardtack!!

Chuck Ogden

[Stonewall_Greyfox]

Pards,
I have an event coming up that is a very early war militia event (April, 1861). I'll be wearing civilian clothing so I was wondering, would it be correct to have an upper-middle class young man wearing a jean cloth vest and trousers? Also, which would be more correct to be wearing, a sack coat, or an over shirt as early war militia?
Thanks,

Upper Middle Class: Alot would depend on how one defines this cast in society. Are you in a rural setting, or something more urban...does your family own land, are you the son of a merchant (if so, define type of shop; dry-goods, second-hand, millinery...etc.), a farmer, a businessman, a banker...etc. This will all give a better picture of what your socio-economic background is...each of us may define the different lots in society in a variety of ways...

Early-War Militia: You will need to define the unit being portrayed. Was this unit a pre-existing Militia company...if so, what information do you have on their uniforms? Is this a generic representation of Militia companies...if so, define what was popular in the region, location being portrayed. With all the variety of Militia uniforms throughout the North and South, it's really not a fair question to limit the choice to only an overshirt and sack coat.

Jean Cloth: I don't know where everyone gets the opinion that ALL jeans cloth was reserved solely for the use of the low-class and slave population...jean cloth came in a variety of grades, and while never as finished as nice woolen cloth...jean cloth and it's sister cloths (cassimere and satinette) were praised for their durability and costs effectiveness...and can be seen in applications where the "look" and durability of the cloth was actually a plus and not a negative. In research for the VMI, pre-war...we actually have records of the Supt. F.H. Smith requesting Cassimere (in addition to Woolen cloth) for the Fatigue Uniforms, for both it's "look" and durability...this is a military school, but ~80% of the student body was made up of the top families throughout the South (including the Cabell, Breckenridge, Letcher, & Wise families among many others**). While this is a military application, I am sure other members of the forum, will have better references for the use of these cloths for the civilian population...speculative on my part, I highly doubt that thousands of yards of jeans cloth were specifically produced in effort to clothe the enslaved population...again, think grades of fabric, some rougher, some finer, some heavier/lighter, some using cotton or hemp or linen in combination to the wool etc...

**Note: These are very predominant families in Virginia ca. mid-nineteenth century, the sons of VA Governors, US ambassadors, major businessmen...

Sack Coat vs. Overshirt: Seeing as you are from NC...are you asking about the Early-War NC Military Sack coat or a Civilian Sack Coat? Overshirts were popular outer-wear, and many Militia companies certainly used these as uniforms early on in the war (Example the 11th VA Regt.)...however again, this is something that needs to be defined to a specific company or more regional practice in order to give a better answer.

If you will provide more clarification, I am sure many on the forum can better answer your questions...

Paul B.

[Hardtack Herring]

All jean cloth was not reserved for slaves.....That would be crazy to think that. I agree with everything that has been said on this thread thus far.

I also want to say that my opinion is jean is way overdone on the Civilian side of re-enacting and I question if it is overdone on the CS Military side as well.

Jean Cloth was a very durable cloth. It could be made in different weights and made a very good cloth for anyone who was working hard.

Typically when I think of middle class and upper class people I do not think of white farmers and laborers who would be the ones that I think would have worn jeans.

I just do not think that many middle class and certainly no upper class citizen would wear ( Excuse the Language here) Nigger Cloth. I have come across that term to describe jean many times in my readings.

Of course this forum is based on facts and not what people remember from the best of their knowledge from reading. That is why I decided to post some reference to slaves and their clothing.

Rather than dig through my personal library for a quick answer I decided to do an internet search on slave clothing. I came up with several references in a short period of time and I will post some of the info I found here. One thing I found in addition to the cloth were ex slaves talking about brass tipped brogans. I do not remember having read this before.

Also I would like to say that my findings today are pretty consistent with what I have read in the past. It seems that on most large plantations the clothing for slaves were made there.


Clayton Holbert and ex slaves….

“We raised corn, barley, and cotton, and produced all of our living on
the plantation. There was no such thing as going to town to buy things.
All of our clothing was homespun, our socks were knitted, and
everything. We had our looms, and made our own suits, we also had reels,
and we carved, spun, and knitted. We always wore yarn socks for winter,
which we made. It didn't get cold, in the winter in Tennessee, just a
little frost was all. We fixed all of our cotton and wool ourselves."


From a 1937 interview of ex slave James V. Deane

"As for clothes, we all wore home-made clothes, the material woven on the looms in the clothes house. In the winter we had woolen clothes and in summer our clothes were made from cast-off clothes and Kentucky jeans. Our shoes were brogans with brass tips. On Sunday we fed the stock, after which we did what we wanted.”

Charlie Richardson, Warrensburg, Mo.

“Big boys and g’own folks wore jeans and domestic shirts. Us little kids wore just a gown. In the wintertime we wore the same only with brogans with brass toes.”

Ex Slave Andrew Goodman states in an interview when he was 97 years old.

“They made us plenty of good clothes. In the summer we wore long shirts, split up the side, made of lowerings-the same as cotton sacks was made out of. In the winter we had good jeans and knitted sweaters and knitted socks”


Bill Simms, Osceola, Mo.

“We never knowed what boughten clothes were. We made our own clothes: had spinning wheels and raised and combed our own cotton, clipped the wool from our sheep’s backs, combed it, and spun [them] into cotton and wool clothes. I learned to make shoes when I was just a boy and I made shoes for the whole family.”

Louis Daves an Arkansas Slave

“In the summer time all the clothes we wore was a long rough jeans shirt. The cloth was made on the place, and it wasn't smooth like cloth of today. Everybody went barefooted. When the cold weather came, we wore pants and warm woolen underclothes. The grown folks always had shoes. Sometimes the children didn't have none. My pa was the shoemaker and I speck he couldn't make them fast enough. Shoes was kinda tedious to make, cause the soles had to be put on with wooden pegs, and that took a long time.”

[Emmanuel Dabney]

Frequently in the past we have discussed the use of cassimere and satinette in men's clothing that was acceptable for white men to wear. However, this idea of those who were wealthy and those who weren't dates back to the 18th century when the Consumer Revolution began.

I don't have the time right now (in class and should be paying attention) but I highly recommend in the interim that people find The Origins of the Southern Middle Class 1800-1861 by Jonathan Daniel Wells.

More on this later...

[Jefferson Guards]

I think that the following book might also shed some light on the questions concerning appropriate fabric for the middle classes:

Michael Zakim. Ready-Made Democracy: A History of Men's Dress in the American Republic, 1760–1860. Chicago: University of Chicago Press. 2003

[CSchneider]

Well, are you a rather politically active well-to-do person? Is it 1861? If so, sport that jeancloth!

I think we tend to forget that for a time, homespun cloth was used as an important political statement for Southern elite, both male and female, as it exhibited a sense of self sufficiency and independence and harkened back to similar movements during both the Revolution and later sectional crises. In June 1861, a Staunton, Va. newspaper wrote:

"Economy is a commendable virtue at any time, but it now becomes a patriotic duty. . . . The gentlemen should give up fine broad-cloth suits and be content with cheaper ones that would wear equally as long and be quite comfortable. The ladies should be willing to forego the pleasure of appearing in costly silks, and high-priced bonnets. The fashion should now be to wear cheap and durable apparel. . . . We hope to see unpretending calico dresses, which have been banished from the towns, again introduced. Who will set the example? What lady will lead this laudable enterprise? The ladies of Staunton have as good a right to “set the fashions” as the less worthy ladies of Paris have.--Patriotism now demands it."

The MOC has a great collection of artifacts from this "homespun movement." Andrew Jackson Grayson's suit is a good example. A wealthy Virginian, Grayson planned to organize a company of soldiers, but would only do so after acquiring a homespun suit to do it in. Indeed, it is a matching suit of indigo dyed jeans, the cloth woven by his slaves.

Look for Vicki Betts' article: “‘They Call It Patriotism:’ Homespun as Politics in the South, 1860-1861.” I believe it can be found online now. It offers a good overview of the subject.

One thing to note, however, is that when looking at several original examples of homespun garments related to Southern elite, I noticed that while the cloth may have been cheap, little expense was spared in having the garments tailored. If you plan on incorporating jeans into your muster impression, don't look like a dirt farmer, look like someone of your class who is proud to be so conspicuously wearing homespun.

-Craig Schneider

[Emmanuel Dabney]

In thinking about the southern middle class outside of the role of agriculture there were a host of occupations available and in The Origins of the Southern Middle Class there is an appendix of these occupations which include:

Agents, bankers, commission agents, dealers, physicians, manufacturers, merchants, and some twenty-five other occupations.

Who were some of these people?

John Rowlett of Petersburg, Virginia was one of the city's leading commission merchants. He was worth $30,000 in real estate and $40,000 in personal estate in 1860. Rowlett owned eight female slaves ranging from 50 to 8 years of age and four male slaves aged 30 years of age to 22 years of age.

Dr. T. S. Beckwith of Petersburg, Virginia owned nine slaves, one 24 year old male and the rest females ranging from 30 to 1 years of age.

Edwin Manigault, a civil engineer in Charleston, S.C. owned a 47 year old female and probably what was her eleven year old daughter.

This is not to say every middle class southerner owned slaves. H.A. Rauhman, a German master painter in Baton Rouge worth $1200 in real estate and $2000 in personal estate, for example seems to have had no slaves from the brief census search I ran on him. However, the southern middle class subscribed to a society which condoned and upheld the racial superiority of whites and upheld (and eventually fought to defend legislatures and a nationa) which validated slavery as right. Commission merchants, like Rowlett, most of whom not only owned slaves but sold the products of large scale planters whose slaves planted, tended, harvested, and prepared crops for market.

What does this mean in terms of their material possessions, including clothes? These people do not want to be considered a part of the laboring class. They propped up their material world with goods that would reflect their wealth. This was reflected in the dress, comportment, employment, and social activities of the middle class regardless of whether they lived in the North or South.

In terms of "homespun":

Certainly there was a movement early in the war for patriotic homespun but let us not confuse "jean cloth" with "homespun." I'm not going to reinvent the wheel of Vicki Betts' research but you may find a list of definitions useful regarding fabric in general at: http://www.uttyler.edu/vbetts/homespun_def.htm.

The Lena Dancy dress that Vicki researched heavily is cotton. You can find more about that dress at: http://www.uttyler.edu/vbetts/dancy_dress.htm.

The Museum of the Confederacy has a pair of trousers which appear in their exhibit catalog for A Woman's War that are a wool and cow-hair blend (it may be cotton and cow hair, I don't have the book with me right now).

[Ian McWherter]

My problem with living historians wearing jean cloth for their civilian impressions (which is overdone) isn't that (manufactured or "homespun") jeans, satinettes or cassimeres weren't worn commonly in contemporary mid-19th century society, its that modern reproduction jeans, satinettes and cassimeres do not generally compare with the quality of those original cloths worn by civilians.

If someone does decide, for whatever reason, to choose jeans, cassimeres or satinettes for their civilian impression they'd be wise to pick out a fine quality of those reproduction cloths.

[CSchneider]

Regarding the quality of "homespun" (and certainly jeans, cassimeres ,etc., fall within the realm of homemade and factory-manufactured cloth commonly referred to as homespun, which also includes many other types of cloth as well) jeans seen in original non-military garments, it is quite often far different from that seen in most reproduction goods. The cloth in the Grayson suit is quite fine and (not making any general judgements about reproduction cloth manufacturers) akin to the dense weave and texture of the finest jean made by Mickey Black. I'll see if I can post a few pictures of the hundreds of pieces of homespun in the MOC's Homespun Collection. The wool/cotton mix stuff in there pretty much runs the gamut from extremely fine to about the quality of most of today's reproduction jeans and cassimeres. The cottons are also certainly much different from the common stuff used today.

-Craig Schneider

[BaconBob]

Would satinette cloth have been a middle class fabric? Its texture seems to be more luxurian than jean cloth, but it is not of a similar quality as a fine wool or linen is. I am curious as to satinette's ranking in the family of cloth. Was it toward the middle range of quality? It seems that I never see it offered for sale either as regularly as jean, linens and woolens are. Is there a reason for ths? Thank you.

Robert Taylor

[Material Culture]

Sattinette may or may not rank above slave cloth with regard to politics as can be seen in the following
http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/forum/showthread.php?p=99828&highlight=nigger+cloth#post99828

Sam Hayle
Cassimere Mess

[GreencoatCross]

Ian is right on the money. The quality of the vast majority of reproduction jean is far too poor to have been considered a viable option for a middle class or upper class person of the time. Some of the most compelling examples of "nice" jeans and satinets from the time were examined by Dan Wambaugh, Terry Sorchy, and myself at the Wisconsin Veteran's Museum early last year.

Among the simply amazing items that the museum currently has in storage is a simple Federal canteen. This canteen is interesting in that it appears to be covered with a finely finished black broadcloth; upon closer inspection I noticed a very fine tan warp peeking through some worn areas. When I pulled the cloth back to see the reverse I noticed that the cloth was double woven (I believe this is the proper term). The cloth was thin and durable, with not a single ray of light passing through any part of the unworn areas, shiny, and neatest of all was the cotton "warp" (or whatever it was...."filling" maybe?) peeking out from between the layers of black wool. I'm not exactly sure what to call this type of cloth but it was clearly a wool/cotton blend fabric of very high quality. I can't help but believe THIS type of mixed cloth would have been used by upper class citizens.

That is an example of the highest grade of mixed cotton/wool cloth I've seen. On the other end of the spectrum are a pair of badly used jean trousers purportedly used by a Tennessee slave (these were on display at the "Liberty On The Border" display in Cincinnati some years ago). I remember the cloth of these trousers being similar to most currently available jeans. There are of course many more "grades" or "qualities" of jean, cassimere, and satinet that fall somewhere between these two examples I've given.

A final note; the majority of satinets, of varying grades, that I've seen in original garments appear to have been finished like a broadcloth or kersey. This seems to have been done with just a few exceptions. Has anyone bothered reproducing "finished" satinet (and I don't mean thrown in the washing machine, dryer, then ironed)?

[27thNCdrummer]

The militia unit being portrayed is the "Beaufort Harbor Guards". This unit was formed on April 13th, 1861 and consisted of 17 Carteret County, NC secessionists. The event is the seizure of Ft. Macon which occurred April 14th, 1861. The fort was seized by men the of the "Beaufort Harbor Guards", men of Beaufort and Morhead City and cadets of the A. M. Institute in Carolina City totaling 54 men. These men were assembled by local secessionist Josiah S Pender.

[Ian McWherter]

Among the simply amazing items that the museum currently has in storage is a simple Federal canteen. This canteen is interesting in that it appears to be covered with a finely finished black broadcloth; upon closer inspection I noticed a very fine tan warp peeking through some worn areas. When I pulled the cloth back to see the reverse I noticed that the cloth was double woven (I believe this is the proper term). The cloth was thin and durable, with not a single ray of light passing through any part of the unworn areas, shiny, and neatest of all was the cotton "warp" (or whatever it was...."filling" maybe?) peeking out from between the layers of black wool. I'm not exactly sure what to call this type of cloth but it was clearly a wool/cotton blend fabric of very high quality. I can't help but believe THIS type of mixed cloth would have been used by upper class citizens.

That's exactly what I'm talking about. Great original item, good job guys, and to think that "fine" cloth was used as a canteen cover.:)

I think many members of the authentic living history community forget that satinetts were supposed to imitate the look fine fine wool broadcloth. Original examples of satinette often appear exactly like broadcloth even with the same high gloss finish and non-fraying edges.

The following is from The Gold Rush Diary of Ramon Gil Navarro pg.239. He made this list before departing Stockton for Sonora.

Tuesday, 1 June 1852
My Closet and all of its old clothes:

1 burgundy cape
1 blue tail coat
1 black tail coat
1 cashmere frock coat
1 sky-blue long summer frock coat
1 suede summer frock coat with mother-of-pearl buttons
2 pair of black satin woolen trousers
1 pair of sky-blue satin woolen trousers for summer
1 pair of violet satin woolen trousers
2 pair of olive-green satin woolen trousers
1 pair of gray satin woolen trousers with white stripes
1 pair of green French cashmere trousers
1 pair of trousers with a stain of her blood on them!
1 satin black vest
1 white velvet vest with sky-blue trim
1 suede-colored vest with sky-blue trim
1 gray cashmere vest with dark green trim
4 white pique' vests
1 purple silk vest with sea-green flowers
1 beige winter overcoat trimmed with cloth of the same color. A gift of my friend A. Enyart from New York
3 dozen white shirts
3 silk shirts
1 dozen sets of drill underware
1 dozen sheets
18 towles or washcloths

It should be noted that Ramon Gil Navarro was by no means a poor man, quite the contrary. He was descended from a well known Argentinean family of great lineage, and was a political outcast from Argentina living with his family in Chile. He came to California in 1849. To describe his clothes in such detail shows what a fashionable man he must have been (25 years old) and to wear trousers of satin woolen should only tell us that the beauty of the cloth must have been exceptional.

From "Men's Fashionable and Everyday Trousers and Fabrics- 1848-1870," by Saundra Altman, notes from a workshop she gave years ago in Columbia, CA:

This ad appears in the May 1854 issue of the Detroit Free Press, Detroit Michigan by Eagle & Elliott:

Importers & Jobbers Of Goods For Men's Wear Exclusively.

Are Now Opening The Richest Stock of Cloth Goods, adapted to city or country trade, ever offered in this city, comprising the entire line of late importations, and the most carefully selected styles of domestic manufactures, which the eastern markets afford.-We are prepared to offer fresh and desirable goods at low prices, viz:
French, English, Scotch and American Fancy Cassimeres, of approved patterns, at reduced prices from last year; Drap D'Etes, Crotons, Nankinettes and Cashmeres; brown, Buff and Slate Lines, in quantity; White and Fancy colors; Linen Drills, Ducks of pure Linen, in colors and white; entirely new patterns...
The celebrated brand of "Biolley & Fils" French Cloths, embracing the entire line of this well tried cloth, in black and colors, and Doeskins and Cassimeres of single and double milled, 100 pieces of these goods.
All Wool and Cotton Warp American Cloths.
Black and assorted colors of Italian Cloth or
Farmers Satin.
A large assortment of Satins and Grenadines. Rich, White, Watered and
Fancy Slik Vestings. BON JEAN SEDAN JOHANEY and Bauendahl's makers of Cloths, Doeskins and Cashmeres.
Printed and Fancy Satinets at Reduced prices.
Summer stuffs.
Ripka's Cords and Denims.
Fancy styles of Mottled and Fancy Jeans.
The real Simon pure, old fashioned Kentucky Jeans, in various grades, warrented half wool.
Staple styles and makers of Satinets, at reduced prices.
Silesias imported and domestic.
Silk Serges, 20 pieces, black and colored.
Buff and White Jackonet, Sleeve Linings.
Mohair Serges,
Lustres and every variety of lining Stuff Goods, required for this peculiar trade.
Tweeds of veritable Wool, and Union.
Tweeds of approved mixtures and colors.
Paddings and Canvas, five hundred pieces.
Pure Italian Sewings and Twist.
Buttons.
Cords.
Binding.
Buckles.
Marshall's Threads.
Stay Cotton.
Holland Black and White Wigans and Vest Paddings.
Heavy Linen Drills or Farmer's Drill.
Velveteens.
Corduroys and Tabby Velvets.
Silk Velvets and Silk Sleeve Linings.
Bleached and Brown Drills and Linings Muslims.
Cottonades, at reduced prices.
Plaid Cloakings.
Twilled Flannels and Hickory Stripes.

The above, with a large assortment of goods usually in demand be Merchants' Tailors, may always be found in our Cloth Ware Rooms, in quantity.

For anyone who thinks goods were rare and hard to come by in Gold Rush California just take a look at this add placed in The Mountain Democrat in 1856:

Clothing Warehouse

WM G. Badger,
No. 109 Battery Street,
Corner of Merchant, San Francisco,

Importer of every variety of Clothing and Furinising Goods. Also, of Blankets, Duck, Drills, Sheetings, Hats, Caps, Boots, and Brogans.
By Recent Arrivals has received very large invoices of the most

Desirable Styles of Clothing,
and the LARGEST STOCK ever offered in this market. the Goods are manufactured under my own supervision; are of the best material, well cut, large sizes, and made in the most durable manner.
Traders from the Country are invited to examine this Heavy Stock, and they will find the prices LOWER than they can be found elsewhere in this market.
Purchasers may rely on receiving the best and most saleable Goods, as each article is guaranteed.
Orders from the country promptly and carefully attended to.

10,000 pairs assorted fancy cassimere pants;
10,000 pairs fancy and plain satinet pants;
7,000 prs linen pants;
2,000 prs Goodyear’s rubber pants;
1,000 Goodyear’s Rubber Coats;
200 cases Goodyear’s long and short rubber boots;
200 cases miner’s boots;
1,000 dozen super flannel overshirts;
200 dozen fancy cassimere overshirts;
1,000 dozen white shirts;
650 dozen heavy hickory shirts;
300 dozen regatta undershirts;
200 dozen grey flannel undershirts;
450 dozen lamb’s-wool drawers;
250 dozen bleached drill drawers;
1,500 overalls;
300 dozen denim frocks;
1,200 dozen country knit wool socks;
1,500 doz heavy white and mixed cotton socks;
1,000 pieces super silk pocket handkerchiefs;
100 dozen super black silk pocket handkerchiefs;
200 dozen cambrie handkerchiefs;
300 dozen rubber belts;
250 dozen buckskin gloves;
400 dozen buckskin gold bags;
1,000 doeskin business coats;
400 dozen black cloth frock coats;
2,000 assorted overcoats;
500 assorted pea coats;
3,000 silk, cloth and velvet vests;
20 bales blue and white blankets;
50 bales A sheetings;
30 bales assorted duck;
50 cases fine felt hats;
100 cases straw hats.

For sale by
WM G. Badger,
Wholesale Clothing Warehouse,
109 Battery St., corner Merchant, San Francisco.

[Jefferson Guards]

2 pair of black satin woolen trousers
1 pair of sky-blue satin woolen trousers for summer
1 pair of violet satin woolen trousers
2 pair of olive-green satin woolen trousers
1 pair of gray satin woolen trousers with white stripes


I have numerous references to the use of satinette for clothing,. However, I wonder, given the detail of the other entries, if he is referencing an all wool "wool satin" rather than a wool/cotton satinette?

[Ian McWherter]

I have numerous references to the use of satinette for clothing,. However, I wonder, given the detail of the other entries, if he is referencing an all wool "wool satin" rather than a wool/cotton satinette?

He could be, its hard to say. Satin weave fabrics are easiest to work with when "hard backed" with a fiber like cotton or silk that in no way diminishes the overall quality, in fact it improves it and makes the cloth more durable.

[Jefferson Guards]

I think many members of the authentic living history community forget that satinetts were supposed to imitate the look fine fine wool broadcloth. Original examples of satinette often appear exactly like broadcloth even with the same high gloss finish and non-fraying edges. [/I]

I agree. Here is an image of the satinette used to construct General Pettigrew’s frock coat. It is finely woven; however it is not the finest satinette I have seen. In my opinion it might have been considered average quality. I have viewed one satinette example that was so finely woven that it was indistinguishable from broadcloth, except in the area's where the moth's had their dinner and exposed the cotton fibers. It was exquisite!

[georgerutherford1861]

Excellent discussion!

If this message is considered a tangent on the subject, please ignore. Otherwise, here is my question: where does one find such high-quality, tightly woven, well-finished as to appear as broadcloth, satinette and the like? Am I just looking in the wrong places or using the wrong search terms? Or, is this yet another in the list of hard to find/unable to find fabrics that were common during the era but that are agonizingly lacking today?

Doug Frank
...who is still struggling to find time to finish a sack coat, and who should not even be considering buying more fabric at this time

[Carolann Schmitt]

To reinforce Ian's comment, the majority of the fabrics available during the period were much higher quality than most of the fabrics available today. It is only by looking at original garments that we can truly appreciate these fabrics and the technology that produced them.

The good news, Doug, is that similar fabrics are indeed still available. The not-so-good news is that they're not easily found. These are not mass-market fabrics, so they're not available from mass-market retailers. Brian and I have found many of the suppliers in the New York City garment/fabric district. I believe Ian has found many of his in similar districts on the west coast. You can find similar fabric districts in most major cities.

A significant number of these suppliers do not have an on-line presence. Their stock changes too frequently to make that a viable option. Instead, you need to visit the shops, squeeze through the aisles (literally), dig through bolts and bolts of fabrics and, if you're lucky, you'll find what you're looking for. Having a swatch or detailed photograph of the fabric is very helpful; many of the staff speak English as a second language and are not familiar with mid-19th century terminology. However, if they have it in stock, they'll find it for you. :)

Finally - cost may be an issue. Fine quality fabrics are expensive to produce, and they will be priced accordingly. Fortunately I've found enough 'bargains' over the years to offset the costlier goods I couldn't live without.

I incorporate fabric shopping on every trip I take. Sometimes you can find great fabrics in very off-the-wall locations. If visiting a major fabric district is not an option, spend some time at the library with telephone directories to find potential sources, then follow up via mail or telephone. Many of this sources will send swatches. Happy hunting!

Regards,

[Jennifer T Wisener]

"State Troops And Volunteers, A Photographic Record of North Carolina's Civil War Soldiers" by Greg Mast, might be of help.

Photo 2.73 is of First Sergeant Edward Jones Brooks of the "Beauguard Rifles" an he is wearing a civilian suit.