Straw hat lining

[Hank Trent]

Only found one old thread on this topic from 2004, with images gone and no real answer, so thought I'd start a new one rather than bump the old one.

For a straw top hat, I'm wondering if a full lining (not just sweatband) is most typical. Seems to defeat the purpose of having as cool a hat as possible, but I suppose it might protect the straw. If a lining was most common, any good images of originals or suggestions for fabric and colors? Silk or cotton? Red seems to be common for felt hats--same for straw? Was a maker's mark usually placed inside the crown?

Here's an image of the outside of an original, which has a black cotton lining on the brim and apparently inside also, according to the description: http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=true&id=263317&coll_keywords=man%27s+straw+hat&coll_accession=&coll_name=&coll_artist=&coll_place=&coll_medium=&coll_culture=&coll_classification=&coll_credit=&coll_provenance=&coll_location=&coll_has_images=&coll_on_view=&coll_sort=0&coll_sort_order=0&coll_view=0&coll_package=0&coll_start=1

Another much earlier French straw top hat with silk lining and paper label, pictured only on the outside though: http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=true&id=120115&coll_keywords=straw+hat+lining&coll_accession=&coll_name=&coll_artist=&coll_place=&coll_medium=&coll_culture=&coll_classification=&coll_credit=&coll_provenance=&coll_location=&coll_has_images=&coll_on_view=&coll_sort=0&coll_sort_order=0&coll_view=0&coll_package=0&coll_start=1

And a photo of a man holding a straw top hat so the inside shows, that appears to be lined on the inside but not the brim (post-war, but the clothes look very similar to 1860s fashions): http://athena.uky.edu/images/ktu/pa1/486.jpg What's funny is that I was assigned to portray the man in the middle (Sanders Bruce) at Perryville in June, but before ever finding the photo, I tried to guess what someone in his situation and social class might wear, and had already started putting together an outfit like the man on the left. So apparently I guessed pretty close, but the photo only confirmed my suspicion that maybe the hat should have a lining.

Hank Trent
hanktrent@voyager.net

[Vicksburg Dave]

Here's an earlier example with a (item 281) with a paper crown lining.
http://www.whitakerauction.com/Tudor_Catalog_11_07/Catalog_1f.htm

[Thomas Alleman]

I was having the same debate with my top hat made of palm leaves. I want to line the inside but this will just keep heat in. I do not see the need to line a hat that is meant for hot weather. I have seen rain covers for straw hats though.

[tater_cuffie]

From the straw hats i've seen they only have a sweat band

[Hank Trent]

From the straw hats i've seen they only have a sweat band

You mean originals, not repros, right? Have you seen any top hats specifically?

Hank Trent
hanktrent@voyager.net

[Spinster]

Hank, absent an original with such, in looking at the concept of a red lining in that light colored straw top hat, my greatest concern would be in the behavior of the red dye as it was consistently worn in an environment that would subject it to sweat and hair oils, and press that red fabric against the light colored straw. I know exactly what happened with my red woolen petticoat and white :rolleyes: underpinnings during a soaked to the skin downpour.

The various natural red dyes tend to not be lightfast--an additional problematic finish inside a hat that would filter light into it, as straw would.

I've seen too many Stetson Straws in West Texas in my younger years to think a red lining in a period straw to have been the norm. While the fashionable top hat would not have been subjected to the amount of sweat in a working man's hat, the lining color would have the tendency to soak through and stain the straw, especially if worn by a bald headed man on a hot day, even with a good sweat band.

Alas the earliest thing I've seen is a circa 1890 fine straw that was sent back to Stetson for reblocking and restoration about twenty years ago---it left with a cream colored silk lining that was stained and shattered, and came back with a new one of the same color.

So, certainly not definitive, but somewhat logical.

[Hank Trent]

A couple people wrote me based on this thread, asking where to get a straw top hat, since apparently some former makers no longer make them. If anyone knows, please post. But I had to say that I didn't know, because I'd made one by re-sewing the woven straw from another hat.

If anyone's interested in doing that, a couple photos of the result are attached. I did decide to add a lining, as you can see. Though some straw hats were woven entirely and not sewn, this is a fairly easy option to make your own, not requiring a hat block. Before sewing, I shaped the straw roughly for each section, wetted it and kept it shaped until dry, just putting weights on it to keep it flat for the top and brim, and wrapping it around a pan for the sides. Then it held its shape just by being sewn.

Hank Trent
hanktrent@voyager.net

[VMurphy]

Hank..I agree that a full lining of the straw hat would defeat the purpose. I recall reading in one of Eliza Farnworths books on traveling to IL. or Ind. to visit relatives ca. 1839, on the river. She describes the tacky boat caption, with dirty stockings and a straw hat with the brim lined in yellow silk. She thought him to be someone that was trying to be more important and higher rank than he was. It's a very interesting book, and I understand she has written several.

Regards
Vivian Murphy

[VMurphy]

I'm sure a fine silk would breath very well....A very handsome hat, Hank...Congratulations!!
Vivian Murphy