Mule Ear Trousers for the US Navy?

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

I was just sent a couple of images of Federal sailors by a pard today, and it showed two signalmen with an officer, with both enlisted men wearing mule ear button fly trousers. I've seen many images of sailors wearing button flies, so I know those were fairly common, but these were the first I'd seen with the mule ear pockets. Does anyone else have images or have seen images of sailors with mule ears? I'd like to see a little more evidence before I start busting out some for myself and other naval comrades.

[fedcampaigner]

Mr. Lamoreaux,

Could you post the picture in question? After a quick look at my copy of EoG there is a picture of federal sailors on p. 167. The sailor on the far left seems to have mule ear trousers. However, my knowledge of the navy is quite limited. Anyway, just my two cents.

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

I'll try figure out this new fangled computer thingy and post the pics I have, but after looking at the EoG pic in question, I'm pretty sure far left dude on page 167 is wearing the traditional broadfall trousers and just has his hand in the side of the flap ala Al Bundy.

[Justin Runyon]

Greg Starbuck sold me a pair of satinette mule ear trousers a couple of years back. He made them specificly for a USN impression. He still may have the info that he used in that endeavour.

Still one of my favorite pair of pants.

[fedcampaigner]

Mr. Lamoreaux,

I think you are right. I took a second closer look and that makes much more sense.

[tpallas]

If I recall correctly mule ear trowsers were Marine Corps regulation issue, so it is quite possible that the sailors drew from USMC stores.

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

I know that the Marines did indeed issue mule ear trousers, but in standard light blue kersey like the army. The trousers I saw on the sailors were most definitely dark blue to match their frocks (jumpers in modern terms).

[OldKingCrow]

self delete

[Canebrake Rifle Guards]

Yes, Yes, Yes.

I'm not sure of the reasons, though we can speculate (isn't that what we enjoy doing best?) but mule ear pocket trousers are a common part of the Civil War USN kit.

I remember doing a survey of individual sailor photos as well as group deck photos and came up with a rough percentage of 50-50 (half mule ear-half traditional).

I also recall looking a many of the uniform receipts on microfilm and though they didn't specify pocket type they did specify "satinet trousers."

Go figure,

Greg Starbuck

PS- I did a paper on Civil War naval uniforms, I can send you a copy if you wish.

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

Greg, thanks for that info. I recall talking to you about satinette Fed navy trousers at the Dade battle when you came down with Steve Abolt, but I until recently hadn't given much thought into looking at images of other than the traditional broadfall or buttonfly with side seam pockets.

[sigsaye]

Ross, Mule ear pockets were very common with fly front trousers as were side seam pockets. There was no differentation is pocket style in writing. However, fly front trousers with either mule ear or side seam pockets were refered to as "Infantry Style" trousers. They were not infantry trousers per say as they were still cut to Naval standards (wide legs and cuffs with deep sizing gussett). The CS Navy also used this termonolegy (as they were first introduced with the 1852 regs which were used by the CSN) and it has been mis inturpreted by many CSN reenactors to mean Army trousers. One of the main reasons that the CSN remained in blue uniforms for most of the war is that the Army took all the gray cloth that was produced to make their own uniforms. There is very little documentation of the Army shareing with the Navy.

The USN did not get into the precision of detail concerning uniforms for enlisted Sailors as did the Army. This was because they knew that Sailors were pretty much on their own when it came to aquireing clothing after initial issue. Most broad fall trousers were Sailor made, as the standard issue for the Navy was the fly front trousers. Broad falls that have survived rarely have any pockets. The ones that do use the inset pockets in the waistband. About half of those surviving only have one pocket. When you see photos of Sailors with their hand tucked into the fall front of their trousers and the wide spacing of the buttons, there is no pocket there. We have examined sever pair of these trousers and they aer just cut that way with a wide extension behind the fall.

By the way, I am looking for Federal bleu sattinette, any one know where to find any?

Steve Hesson

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

Great info as always Steve - thanks. I have a couple of folks digging in their material stash to see what they have for satinette, so I'll let you know what turns up.

[sigsaye]

Thanks Ross. My only interest is the Material and Social culture of the American Sailor. The Civil War itself has little interest for me other than the life of the Sailors of the era.

Another fabric that was very commonly used was Federal Blouse Flannel.
I have documentation that in Southern (read Hot) climates, blue denim and blue cotton drill were heavily used for working uniforms.

White uniforms were not worn for working but reserved for dress functions at the direction of the Senior officer Present. There was no "Wear From-To" dates like there is today. Sailors seldom wore them. The surviving white uniforms are either cotton drill about 10oz or nice linin. The cotton drill being the issue items and the linin being Sailor Made "Liberty" uniforms. The reenactor fettish of wearing thsat heavy canvas "Duck" fabric they get at Hancock Fabrics is incorrect.

Steve Hesson