1861 Armisport Springfield Question(s)

[robwall1861]

Hello,

I"m sure like many of you after last weekend at ATB, my musket got rusty from the rain. I took the barrel off of it this time and cleaned the inside and outside. I finished the inside and put some oil down the barrel and am good to go with that. On the exterior I take all the rust off with a scotch brit pad and then coat it with some oil. I've had this musket for 10 years and was wondering if for those of you that have the same weapon as me, do you always get it looking brand new out of the box shiny or do you usually have some residual tarnish on the metal and just accept that it will show up after years of use? All the rust is off, I just have tarnish on the barrel....

My other part of the question: while taking the middle band off I broke off the part of the band that holds the sling swivel on (now I just have the middle band with a hole in it where the sling swivel would go. Can I solder the band and the swivel back to each other, or am I better off buying a whole new middle band with the sling and swivel attached to it already?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Robin

[Gary of CA]

You can polish the barrel (simichrome) or use a buffer wheel (think big buffer wheel and not dremel size). If you want to preserve it, apply Rennaisance Wax which you can pick up at Woodcraft. Developed by the British Museum, it is used by museum conservators worldwide, is PH neutral and may be used on metal, wood and leather.

[tater]

scotch brite and rem-oil (or if you want to splurge, kano kroil) keeps my musket up.

[Curt-Heinrich Schmidt]

Hallo!

IMHO...

The answer can come down to whether you are striving for the "more authentic: look and appearance of a Civil War era "field maintianed" wepaon using the methods and techniques that CW soldiers actually used..

versus

striving for the look of the modern Italian reproductions with their modern factory electric buffing wheels and polishing compounds that all too often produce an unrealistic and unhistorical "mirror bright" finish?

Hmmmmm. It sounds like you lost the "swivel lug" on the middle band. THis is supposed to be a on epiece casting as per the originals.
You can solder it back, but solder makes for a weak joint that has to bear a lot of stress from the sling- and will be prone to poping off especiallyin colder weather.
I would replace the band, preferably with a one piece one. However, since the Italian repro's are "off," a reproduction of an original band will likely be too small and require FFF (Fitting, Fussing, and then Fuming) to fit.
It may be easier to go with an Italian replacement part and hope that the rare occurance of the lug popping does not repeat (as they NUG do not).

Curt

[robwall1861]

Curt,

I think I'd rather get the more authentic look that you mentioned in the first part of your post (can you clarify what you meant by that?)....however, after my weapon gets wet, I always take a scotch brit pad and then oil it as well (same oil I use on the inside of my barrel after I've cleaned it as a matter of fact:).....

I was most likely going to get a whole new middle band. I'll probably just call S&S or Reg't QM and get it from them as they stock parts and I need to order some accessories anyways (CW Issue Wrench for the field and also a tompion as I lost mine a while back).

Thanks for the help.

Robin

[Curt-Heinrich Schmidt]

Hallo!

In my Heresies...

When in the field- I used Period methods as part of the Living History or historical experience such as cleaning with wiper, tow, and water or polishing with fire ash and water paste.

When at home, I sometimes look to the quick and easy that replicates the look of the above method(s) such as worn out SCOTCH BRITE pads or 0000 steel wool and oil. Or GI cleaning patches wetted with soapy water on a modern jag and aluminum range rod.

(I have suffered some blackening due to rust in Monsoons, that I later removed with electric buffing wheel and polishing compounds in the interest of time and laziness. But I then go back with mildly abrasive worn out SCTOCH BRITE pads or work out 0000 steel wool to replicate/duplicate the lookk of Period ash or emory paste work and NOT the artificial and unhistorical mirror bright polish look one can shave in.)

Others' mileage will vary...

Curt

[Hiline]

First time I took mine out it got rusted and tarnished. I cleaned off the rust and left the tarnish, now it looks used. I kinda like it that way. If they old timers didn't have polishing paste and buffer wheels then I won't either.

Sgt. Rob Rankin
Co. G 5th Infantry
Montana District

[Curt-Heinrich Schmidt]

Hallo!

"If they old timers didn't have polishing paste and buffer wheels then I won't either."

Ah but...

They did have ash paste, or emory, etc., and depending upon the time, place, and circumstance, they also had "inspections."

;) :)

Curt

[JimKindred]

They also had NCO's that "helped" the troopies understand how to maintain their equipment.

[Hiline]

I stand corrected, thank you. I shall look into ash paste and other period recipes. Since I am and NCO I shall put the boots to the troops, Oh wait, that's me there's no one else in my company. :)

Sgt. Rob Rankin
Co. G 5th Regt. Inf.
Montana Territory

[sthabig]

Ok,

Since we are on the subject...what are the correct period methods for the cleaning and maintenance of a rifle-musket? What I have been doing is simply running warm water through the barrel and oiling it. Does anyone have a link or quick advice on the cleaning and maintenance of a rifle-musket?


Thanks,

Tyler Habig

[Curt-Heinrich Schmidt]

Hallo!

"From Rules for the Management and Cleaning of the Rifle Musket, Model 1861, for the Use of Soldiers (applies to the Springfield Models 1855, 1861, and 1863, and more generally to the Enfield Models 1853 and 1858), under "Rules for Cleaning":

It is not essential for the musket to be dismounted {disassembled} every time that it is cleaned; for, after firing it in fine weather, or when there has been no chance for the wet to get between the barrel and the stock, it can be perfectly cleaned in the following manner.

Put a piece of rag or soft leather on the top of the cone, and let the hammer down upon it; pour a gill of water into the muzzle carefully, so that it does not run down the outside; put a plug of wood into the muzzle, and shake the gun up and down, changing the water repeatedly until it comes out clear. When clear, withdraw the leather, and stand the musket on the muzzle for a few moments; then wipe out the barrel (as given in the second rule for cleaning {see below}), and also wipe the exterior of the lock and the outside of the barrel around the cone and cone-seat first with a damp rag, and then with a dry one, and lastly with a rag that has been slightly oiled. In this way, all the dirt due to the firing may be removed without taking out a screw.

2nd. Screw the wiper on to the end of the ramrod, and put a piece of dry cloth, or tow, round it, sufficient to keep it from chafing the grooves of the barrel; wipe the barrel quite dry, changing or drying the cloth two or three times.

3d. Put no oil into the vent, as it will clog the passage, and cause the first primer to miss fire; but, with a slightly oiled rag on the wiper, rub the bore of the barrel,... and immediately insert the tompion into the muzzle

Curt

[sthabig]

Curt,

Thanks for the info.


Tyler Habig

[mmafan]

I was surprised that no one mentioned boiled linseed oil.
At home: rub down with emery cloth and then put on a thin layer of boiled linseed oil. It will dry and have a brown look but it is authentic and will keep rust off for quite awhile.

[swankgreg]

I had a situation where a heavy fog/dew attacked my springfield while campaigning in a heavily wooded area. I used a little Brasso on the barrel and while removing the rust, it also removed the uber-shiny finish that comes on the Armisport repros. It might be worth a try.

[marktaylor]

In the past when it was raining or very humid at an event, I would take a piece of pork fat and rub down the metal. Now, this certainly is not the best method of rust prevention but works well and also makes your weapon smell good.
At home I oil with modern gun oil or grease.

Mark Taylor

[Bob 125th NYSVI]

In the field I take emory paper (I can't find 'cloth' locally) with me to get the heavy rust off the barrel of my 1861 Springfield (EuroArms). Then just hot water and rags to clean out the barrel.

The emory cloth will get the barrel back to armory bright but you can see where it scratches the metal before you polish the barrel.

At home once I have completed a through cleaning I rub the metal with bore butter. Doesn't keep it "armory bright" in the field but does make it a whole lot easier to get the rust off.

And exactly what the heck is "armory bright" So shiney that I can see myself or just so the sun glints off it?

[marktaylor]

I was just browsing through "Confederate Recipes" by West & Johnson, published in 1863. I found this interesting note-


TO KEEP ARMS AND POLISHED METAL FROM RUST.--

Dissolve one ounce of camphor in two pounds of hog's lard, observing to take off the scum, then mix as much black lead as will give the mixture an iron color. Fire arms, &c., rubbed over with this mixture, left twenty-four hours, and then dried with a linen cloth, will keep clean for many months.

[Daniel]

When I was reenacting, I tried to stay away from having my Enfield "armory bright." According to The Ordnace Manual For Use Of The Officers Of The Confederate State Army "In cleaning the arms, great care should be observed to preserve the qualities essential to service, rather than to obtain a bright polish."

I used the technique that Curt quoted from the ordance manual in field cleaning my Enfield after ever use. Putting a piece of leather between the cone and hammer and pouring warm water down the barrel, then pouring it out until it ran clear and finally using a patch and some light oil on the inside of the barrel and outside did well. At home I would always use 0000 steel wool and light oil to clean the outside of the barrel. It knocked off any rust but would maintain the patina on the barrel. This gray patina, once it built up, would help protect the metal.

In my opinion, Scotch-Brite pads and modern emory cloth are generally too harsh on the metal.

The US or CS ordance manuals are, in opinion, still the best manual in learning how to clean and maintain a musket.

Dan Stewart

[David Fox]

Federal heavy artillerymen in the Washington defenses kept their muskets mirror-bright using shop equipment, turning the barrels on lathes as I recall. I find at home 4-0 emory cloth, used lengthwise on the barrel, gives the subdued national armoury bright brushed look. Automobile rubbing compound on fine steel wool then on a rag is good, too, especially on brass. Most oil will darken and rot wood. Look for a grease (like the possibly defunct RIG) that won't, and won't run off, either.

[Gary of CA]

Rennaisance Wax. Especially if you're re-enacting and not shooting. It's PH neutral, microcystelline and may be applied to metal, wood, leather and won't discolor your cherished gun.

[shooter13]

The easiest way to remove rust is 0000 steel wool without any oil ( burn it off with a lighter/match). After polishing off the rust then wipe the weapon with an oily cloth ( any good quality firearms oil but preferably a synthetic based oil) and preserve the weapon by wiping it down a second time and patching the bore with a silicone impregnated rag--sold as rod and gun cloths by Outers and others.. I have carried a blue steel Colt Python for 20 plus years on duty in all weather conditions and this treatment with the rod and gun rag has prevented any rust. And when I say all weather conditions I mean gully-washer downpours to blizzard snows, and the occasional dip in a river (that's wheren a couple of morons ran to before I could lay hands on them over the years:D). The use of a silicone patch through the bore seems to reduce the effects of the corrosives of BP and the salts & corrosives in the caps.

Bill Hess