Period Black Paint

[benjaminmcgee]

Hello,

A quick question in regard to common black paint. If one adds jappan dryer to the usual formula, will the mixture solidify in a sealed can? or is it added just before use? Also, what is the ratio of jappan dryer to a quart of paint (real linseed based paint). Thanks.

Benjamin McGee

[Curt-Heinrich Schmidt]

Hallo!

Yes, in my experience...

The Japan Dryer will eventually "dry" the paint even in a sealed container, can, or bottle.

I cannot suggest a ratio of Dryer to Paint as I never read the "Destructions" on the can, and tend to questimate the amount for the amount of drying time I am after (not an exact science).

I have used as much as 25% by volume Japan Dryer in my various blends/mixes of linseed oil/varnish type "hard oils" when I want/need an application to be dry on the wood in an hour or two so that I can finish a stock in less than a day or so.

Curt

[3rdUSRedleg]

3/4 of a shot glass of Jap. Dryer

[Eureka Independent]

Hi All,

I use about 10% Japan Dryer in some mixtures & have had it not solidify in a sealed can or jar. That beign said, a skin does develope aross the top of the mixture. I leafe this as it seals off the paint and delays stops the drying so the mix will last about 6 months ( If I don't use it up first)

Don S

[benjaminmcgee]

Hello Guys,

Thanks for the information.

Benjamin McGee

[John Peterson]

To maximize shelf life of your paint:

As needed, decant the paint into a smaller container and add glass marbles or clean stones to raise the level of the paint and decrease the amount of dead air between the top of the paint and the lid. Before putting on the lid blow some air you've kept in your lungs for a couple of seconds into the container - the CO2 will hinder drying/curing.

[lukegilly13]

To add to this discussion....will too much japan dryer make the paint brittle? Should one increase or decrease the amount of thinner used as you increase japan dryer? Also, did period manufacturers use an exact mixture or did they just "eye ball" it each time to run off a batch of material?

[John Peterson]

I have experimented with prodigious amounts of japan drier added to asphaltum (japan) paint - almost 1:1 - on tinware. This goes a long way to thinning out the paint so I do not add any additional solvent (mineral spirits or high quality turpentine.) The finish is not any more brittle by my estimation. Real asphaltum paint that is not applied thickly is pretty susceptible to chipping and wear from abrasion once it is fully cured already. This is seen on originals. One thing I do notice, though, is that drying begins so quickly that it is difficult to blend brush strokes into an already painted area if you are painting a large item. This may not be an issue with lacquer type paints or on porous surfaces.

[2ndvasoldier]

Hi guys,
I used a cap full of Japan drier and it has yet to dry up on me. Its about 6 and 1/2 months old now.

happy painting,
Andrew Rowand
2nd Virginia co A

[John Peterson]

I used a cap full of Japan drier and it has yet to dry up on me. Its about 6 and 1/2 months old now.

Andrew,

Were you painting on metal or cloth? What was the formula for your paint? I have found you have to use artist's grade lampblack, turpentine and linseed oil to get the best results if you are mixing your own paint. If you are using roofing asphalt hopefully you are not using some with asbestos fibers embedded in it. Also, it may have a solvent designed to keep it pliable and prevent cracking. One more thing - how much paint was that cap full added to? In order for it to speed drying you would have had to have started with a pretty small quantity of paint - not much more than a few ounces I would figure.

On a side note: I bought a painted mechanics cap off this forum years ago and while it is very nicely constructed the paint never fully dried. It stuck to a shirt I had stored next to it. My temptation is to say "ruined the shirt" but I suppose it was a form of damage that happened in the period, as well. Some of us have seen unissued federal knapsacks that were stored away in tight stacks (like at Bannerman's) and have had to be peeled apart.

[chesnutmor]

Couldn't you use Black Walnut to achieve the color too?

Jill

[John Peterson]

Couldn't you use Black Walnut to achieve the color too?

There's a thought ... My background is far from encyclopedic but I have never come across black walnut as a pigment in professionally mixed oil paints then or now. I do not recall seeing it in any collections of period paint formulas. I understand it is water soluble and I know it was used as a dye or ink. But I believe it cannot be ground down fine enough, and in that grade of reduction is not dark enough, to be used for an oil-based japan pigment. If anyone knows otherwise I would be happy to hear about it.

[minieball]

In the japanning formula I use for my ferrotype plates I use canada balsam fir extract as a hardening agent in the asphaltum paint. It's use is based on a period manual. Towler's, I think. You can also use a spar varnish as a hardening agent as well. Mind you I'm applying it to sheet iron, not fabric.

When making a batch of japan paint up I heat the mixture until it's almost boiling on a hot plate (no flames!) and thenI filter it and let it cool. Its pretty much ready to go. If it gets thick on me I just add a bit of mineral spirits.

Another thing is that I have found that you can't use the odorless mineral spirits. It just doesn't give the same results as the stinky kind.