View Full Version : Shortening haversack straps
jdanner723
01-13-2009, 10:06 PM
Hi all,
I have always put a knot in my haversack strap to shorten it and make sure that the haversack itself rests on my hip. Recently, I was going through some of my old research articles and came across the line "take the time to cut or fold the straps to the right level." I was wondering which of these methods would be more appropriate. If it is the cutting and folding method, how would I go about doing this?
Joey
RudyN
01-13-2009, 10:33 PM
I also had a haversack that was hanging to low and all I did was just fold the strap until it was the correct length and then handsewed the fold. It held up for several years until I found one that was the right length without any modification.
jdanner723
01-13-2009, 10:58 PM
So just a fold and a whipstitch huh? Sounds easy enough. Thanks!
Andrew Kasmar
01-14-2009, 12:10 AM
Hi,
So just a fold and a whipstitch huh? Sounds easy enough. Thanks!
I would sew through all the layers of te fabric, instead of whipstiching it. However this is a little difficult, so you may want to cut the strap. I have done it both ways, and both work out fine. So really should have no problem.
Here is a picture of CS soldier wearing a Federal haversack that has been folded.
Andrew
Yellowhammer Rebel
01-14-2009, 01:07 AM
One of the big problems that I can see with cutting the strap instead of folding it is that once it is cut you can never go back and undo it. If you, on the other hand, fold and sew, you can just cut the stitching and let it back out to its original length if that ever becomes necessary either as loaner gear or for resale somewhere down the line.
Just my 1c take it for what its worth,:)
Andrew Schultz
jdanner723
01-14-2009, 01:16 AM
Do you have an example as to how you did it Andrew? I'm having trouble visualizing how to sew it...
One of the big problems that I can see with cutting the strap instead of folding it is that once it is cut you can never go back and undo it. If you, on the other hand, fold and sew, you can just cut the stitching and let it back out to its original length if that ever becomes necessary either as loaner gear or for resale somewhere down the line.
Just my 1c take it for what its worth,:)
I think I'll try an fold it. You brought up a point I didn't think of immediately...resale.
Andrew Kasmar
01-14-2009, 08:42 AM
Hi,
If sewing through all the layers, I would sew around the perimeter of the folded area. Then I would sew a "x", kind of like how the strap is attached to the haversack bag. If you need, I can post pictures later this afternoon.
Andrew
flattop32355
01-14-2009, 10:18 AM
Do you have an example as to how you did it Andrew? I'm having trouble visualizing how to sew it...
Make the fold in an area where it won't ride against you; next to the bag at either end of the strap, with the fold to the outside away from your body.
Make a fold that you think will put the bag where you want it to ride when you wear it. Pin it, and try it on. Adjust as needed until you have it where you want it.
Keep in mind that the fold will now be three thicknesses of the strap; you'll need a decent needle to get through all that thickness. It doesn't have to be pretty, but you do want to sew down the fold at its top and bottom, and possibly an "X" pattern from corner to corner as well.
It's a process easily done while watching TV (a CW show, of course) and should take about an hour, if you're not all that good with a needle, like me.
BrandonEnglish
01-14-2009, 10:29 AM
I would also suggest getting a sail palm or something similar to push the needle through. A thimble makes it pretty hard, if you have the palm and a good needle it will make it much much easier.
Curt-Heinrich Schmidt
01-14-2009, 11:58 AM
Hallo!
A small square of stout leather will serve as a "push pad."
(I really hate slipping and pushing the eye end of the needle down to the bone...)
And a pair of pliers can come in handy in pulling the needle out the other side.
An awl can be used to create/enlarge a hole, allowing the needle easy passage through the material.
Curt
"It's not a project until you bleed on it." -an old wag, circa 1993.
jdanner723
01-14-2009, 12:01 PM
"It's not a project until you bleed on it." -an old wag, circa 1993.
That's the truth! Thank you all for your help and suggestions. I have it tacked to the right spot so now I'll need to try my hand at stitching it together. Thanks again.
Joey Danner
I use the folded strap method to shorten haversack straps; but I go one step further. I make my fold down near the haversack, on the side toward the rear, and put a leather lace, about a foot long, in the fold, before sewing everything up. This is where I tie my tin cup. It's easy to get to and doesn't bang into the guy standing next to me in line.
I have no proof any of the real soldiers did this; but they did have needles, thread, and shoe laces. I sort've doubt, I'm the first person, since 1861, to figure out this little trick.
musketbal
01-17-2009, 02:02 AM
Hi all,
I had the same problem with my haversack. The haversack is 29 years old and I am some what fond of it. I guess its almost antique. I folded the strap then added a piece of cavalry upper boot leather as reenforcement. I also re sewn where the straps attach to the haversack by making Xs.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z158/musketbal/DSC01859.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z158/musketbal/DSC01860.jpg
Hope this helps,
Brent Conner
When I folded mine, I made the fold in the front almost near the chest. I stitched it across the bottom of the fold and both sides, but left the top unstitched. This left me with a 4 inch long pocket in the strap that will fit a toothbrush or pencil.
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