Use of Denim

[Possum]

Pards,

I was wondering what the use of Denim was in the Civil War period. Basically was there stuff made from what looks like modern blue jeans today, out there,

[ElizabethClark]

Could you clarify the uses you're thinking of, specifically?

[CJDaley]

Excellent question. There have been whole text books written about the history of denim. It's a fabric that in cotton and linen dates back to the early 17th century and in regular use by the 3rd quarter of the 18th century. Black denim in particular was a popular fabric for men's breeches during the American Revolution.

As for extant Civil War garments, I know of 4 issued garments (CS and US) that are either entirely made from denim, or employ denim as an interfacing or lining. There is a pair of well documented trowsers worn by a Confederate which was made from blue cotton denim with brown stitching...sound familiar? :)

There are countless civilian garments from the mid-19th century made from this fabric including sack coats, overalls, vests, dusters, trowsers and other items. It's no wonder that denim is king today given widespread usage of this fabric throughout our nation's history.

Again, this was a great question!

[John McClellan]

I have talked with several folks about period denim, and some say that period denim would not have the white specks in it like our modern denim becouse of the way it was weaved and or dyed? IF... that is the case can someone with more experience chime in on this and explain it better.
Thanks
John McClellan
Fowlers Battery

[Greg Barnett]

Here is an older link ( http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13258 ) where some of these issues were discussed in regards to denim. I enjoy the topic myself.
Cheers

[John McClellan]

Thanks Greg I missed that one, there is some good information in that post!
John McClellan

[ohpkirk]

This pre-dates our area of interest by a couple of decades, but here are some photos of a late 1830's tailcoat made of denim. The man that this coat belonged to died in 1835. As you can see from the first photo, the denim looks very similar to modern denim.

[Spinster]

Rocky,

Since Ben The Possum King Thomas is never on line anymore, having been swallowed up by school teaching, another darlingbabygirl, and grad school, you might try to hunt him up at some local event--or head up the road from your place--its not that far.

Some good while back, this Ben got together with either Ben Tart or Charlie Chillds and worked out a run of a particular blue denim cotton documented to the Hilliby True Blues. Nice stuff, and like so many things, there is not any more of it, as Benjamin made up a dozen or so pair of trousers until he was more than about sick of the job.

This particular demin was, as I recall, a white warp and an indigo weft, with a bit of an unbalanced twill.

[John McClellan]

Thanks for posting those pics Cody, it sure does look like our modern denim!
John McClellan
Fowlers Battery

[Citizen_Soldier]

Greetings,
I would steer clear of modern "white back denim," it is my understanding that it did not become common until the early 20th century. Instead I would recommend a yarn dyed or indigo piece dyed denim. In the past I've had success finding modern yarn dyed denim at larger fabric stores both local and online that compare favorably to the fabric of original denim garments I've viewed.

Darrek Orwig

[Possum]

Citizen soldier,

Could you post the links to these sites that have this fabric you speak of?

Ya, Mrs. Lawson, I spoke up too late for Ben Thomas's run of trousers, ugh!

Thanks ya'll!

[coastaltrash]

The pants Ben had the run made out were not denim, but rather indigo dyed cotton jean (a good bit heavier than denim) and were put together in reference to the 1st Florida documentation of "collars with blue cuffs and collars and blue pants" that came out before the Chickamauga campaign. Nice stuff, Ben hasn't done it in a long time, and I'm pretty sure we'll never see that dark indigo blue on brown cotton jean FHW made long long ago!

[FloridaConscript]

I'll second that on the dark indigo on brown cotton jean. i was lucky enough to buy some and have some pants made. Lee White has a couple references on it I think.The fellow who made them said there was enough left over for a vest or 2, and I traded it to him for a BGK kepi. Love the pants and use em every time I get the chance

and Wash Ives was 4th Florida (soon to be consolidated with the 1st Fla Cav dsmnted). The 1st and 3rd Fl inf consolidated after Perryville.


The pants Ben had the run made out were not denim, but rather indigo dyed cotton jean (a good bit heavier than denim) and were put together in reference to the 1st Florida documentation of "collars with blue cuffs and collars and blue pants" that came out before the Chickamauga campaign. Nice stuff, Ben hasn't done it in a long time, and I'm pretty sure we'll never see that dark indigo blue on brown cotton jean FHW made long long ago!

[OldKingCrow]

The pants Ben had the run made out were not denim, but rather indigo dyed cotton jean (a good bit heavier than denim) and were put together in reference to the 1st Florida documentation of "collars with blue cuffs and collars and blue pants" that came out before the Chickamauga campaign. Nice stuff, Ben hasn't done it in a long time, and I'm pretty sure we'll never see that dark indigo blue on brown cotton jean FHW made long long ago!



Is the AOT soldier manequin in the Vistors Center dressed in those trousers ?

I think "he" is.

[lukegilly13]

Yes I believe it is...I have a picture of it at home....if no one confirms I will post this evening.

[Dan Munson]

For what it may be worth to anyone, Don Smith (Trans Miss Dept Co.) has made a couple of pairs of "jeans" a la the way Levi Strauss (and others?) were putting them out in the 1850s and 1860s. I have seen Don in them, and they (the jeans) look very nice.

Piney Woods in just a few days...Can't Wait!!

[Citizen_Soldier]

Greetings,
It will be a few days before I'm able to spend time taking a look at some online fabric sources for period appropriate denim. My sources were modern fabric vendors who infrequently would have some denim in stock that compared favorably to original garments I had viewed.

I would also be willing to send you a scrap piece of some good denim I found so you can compare it to fabric in local venues at your location. Just PM or email me at ddorwig@gmail.com for my mailing address and I'll have you send a self addressed stamped envelope my way.

Darrek Orwig

[USSanCom]

It's been about 15 yrs since my visit there, but if anyone is around Independence, MO, there was a little museum there attached to the U.S. Marshall's museum. I believe there was a one room schoolhouse there as well. Inside they had what was supposedly a denim uniform. I took pictures at the time, but they are probably in storage somewhere.

[Possum Skinner]

Alas, all that material is long gone except for pieces. To be honest, my trousers made from it have about run their course.

The material I made those trousers from was a cotton jean, not a denim, although it does have a similar look. Ben Tart was the maker of that material.

As far as me ever hand felling, hand sewing, and putting together 20 pairs again; I had rather be scrubbed with a wire brush and thrown in one of Mrs. Terre's dye pots...in July...

Also, we used measurements and photos of an original pair to make those pants, that's one reason I hand felled all the seams like the originals. The original pair had a multi-colored weft, mostly white and pink, but we could not replicate that. Unfortunately, a hard drive crash and the subsequent theft of my digital camera has caused those pics to disappear. The gentleman who owns that pair of trousers lives in the Atlanta area and was a mainstream reenactor. I need to look his info up and see if I can go document those pants again.