Period Interfacing

[NYCivilWar]

Hello All,

I am constructing a Confederate RD III and am curious as to what was used for interfacing in originals. I have heard and seen (through a display case at a museum) that a burlap-type material was used. Can anyone confirm or deny this?

I just don't want to limit this discussion to interfacings on RD IIIs, but if you have info on what you've seen in other jackets, please post away. I'd also like to see what folks have to say about civilian garments, which I assume varied widely as to interfacing, but give me what you've got.

[CSchneider]

Just from looking at my notes on the first two Richmond jackets that I turned to (an "RDII" and an "RDIII"), both were interfaced with a heavy plain weave cotton, the yarns a bit thicker than the osnaburg used to line the body. The old heavy osnaburg that FHW used to make is a good match. Typical "grain sack" material is pretty close as well.

I've seen all sorts of interfacing on C.S. jackets, but one of the more common involved the body lining simply extending beneath the facings and serving as the interfacing.

-Craig Schneider

[wade03]

Kyle,
I have never seen a RD III up close so I cannot say for sure. But I assume that they wouldn't have spent to much time and care on interfacings. I would suggest that a heavier cotton would work. Burlap could be a second.
I've looked at several officer coats and civilian coats. All seam to have a heavy linen possibly treated with gum tragacanth making it "buckrum." Interfacing with buckrum has be a long standing tradition before the 1860's. Also there is "hair cloth" which is a cloth made from linen/cotton woven one way and horse hair the other. Making the cloth stiff one way and bendable the other way. Also it is notable that a whole lot of interfacings were pieced from scraps even in higher end items.
I attached a picture of the horse hair(I’m pretty sure) and linen buckrum showing through the stitching in a CS officers uniform. Hope this helps.

[Spinster]

Yes, that does look like horsehair cloth in the image.

Its hard to find these days--most available in fabric stores has a high man-made component.

Thankfully, Needle and Thread in Gettysburg does stock a cotton warp, horsehair weft, fabric that is 70+ inches wide, so a little bit will go a long way. I've used it in a horsehair petticoat, and I'm well pleased with the performance, especially when wet.