Burlap for overcoats

[Stonewall_Greyfox]

I'm working on putting together an overcoat, and realize that burlap is used as an interfacing in the coat.

1st Question: Is there a source where very tightly woven burlap is available (as seen on original garments), or are we stuck with using the loose stuff that Walmart/Joanne Fabrics carry?

2nd Question: The original burlap seems to be without oils (perhaps dried - or were never there), and seems to be very rigid. If having to use the readily available burlap, I'd assume to give it a thorough wash, but this then leaves the burlap limp and without much stiffness. Should this then be heavily starched with something as simple as Argo...or are there other things I should look to in order to better replicate the look of the original available burlap?

Thanks,

Paul B.

[CSchneider]

Paul,

While I know this may not help depending on if you are intent on copying a particular original or not, but the last Federal overcoat I had the opportunity to examine used a type of burlap for the interfacing that was a very close match the the loosely woven stuff that you can get at Walmart. Indeed, it was fairly stiff and not oily. I was contemplating that if I ever got around to making a copy of the coat, I may just use the typical burlap without washing or starching it.

-Craig Schneider

[robert-m]

While I was preparing for bummers the past few months I my self did some research on this same thing. I however did not make an over coat, mine is a frock. I found no resource that lead me to believe that there was a tight weave, or non-treated burlap. It is NOT an easy fabric to work with. It is VERY VERY VERY time consuming and EXTREMELY itchy. But after running it through the wash a few time it wasn't as irritating to the skin. the button holes are the hardest part. you well have to be sure the lining of the coat is long enough to reach from the breast edge all the way around to the other one. or the holes will never stay sewn, I found this out the hard way and had to cut new linings. I hope this helps.

[Canton Zouave]

Paul,

The James Wilde Jr. Contrqact Overcoat that I studies has similar very tighly woven burlap material in the facing and collar, and get this...it is all one piece. Odd, seeing as that seems to be very wasteful considering some of the other short cuts thye took with the coat. Anyways, I lucked out and found a small supply of some very good burlap whihc is used in the upholstery business. I assume for stiffening skirts for couches and the like. So take a look at some upholstery supply locations and you may be lucky to find what you need. Hope this helps. Send me an regular email and I can send an image or two of the original.

[Spewy]

I assembled a Federal Foot Pattern Overcoat winter before last. After fully researching the project ,including examining two original coats, I learned far more about the different types of burlap than I ever wanted to. Mr. Morris is quite correct, the burlap used in upholstery work comes much closer to matching what was used than the more common type of burlap you find at Wal-Mart. Any of the larger Millinery stores that carry upholstery material should have it. I wouldn't recommend sewing button holes in it though. A stiff strip of canvas is easier to work with and gives a much better appearance. I hope this helps.

[wade03]

I have examined quite a few original items that have burlap in them. First was an enlisted overcoat. The burlap was only in the collar and looked just like the stuff you can buy at Wal-Mart, same loose weave. This was also the case in the forage caps I looked at just loosely woven ugly burlap. The one thing I saw that was different was the weight of the burlap, the stuff at Wal-Mart seems to be a little heavier. Mr. Morris mentions that the one he saw had a tighter weave. This burlap was interfacing, never meant to be seen. So I’m sure it varied a lot pending on what could be gotten at the cheapest price by the contractor or Arsenal. Same goes for linings and what not, tons of variation. Hope this helps!

BTW. Attached are two images of the MacDowell and an issue Forage cap. They do look like they have a tighter weave than the Wal-Mart stuff

[Spinster]

Paul

Back in August, Hamilton Dry Goods had a goodly amount of 'new old stock' with the hand and appearance of a period burlap lining.

It's actually a tightly woven but coarsely sett linen tow. It washes well though shrinkage is high as would be expected. Finished cloth is nubby and coarse. R

I have a good amount on hand, earmarked for a run of 18th century wagoneer's shirts, but have not yet put scissors to cloth, so I can get negotiable on sharing if Hamilton is out.

No images available--once again, I'm at Daddy's for an extended period while my fabric is at home.