Drawers

[KathyBradford]

Please forgive the rather delicate nature of this question. To keep my sons warm for the Struggle for Statehood, I handstitched some of Pat Kline's fine canton flannel into drawers. Using Charlie Childs' drawers pattern, there's a gap in the front similar to the opening between two parentheses (). Is it appropriate to add another button halfway down from the top? Are there originals with different configurations? Any advice?

Looking forward to grandchildren someday...

[Jefferson Guards]

If you wear your shirt tucked into your drawers then you alleviate the problem of not having a button there. I have seen both issue drawers and sanitary commission patterns that do not have buttons, but then there were also pairs that did have buttons. It all depends upon which original you are reproducing.

[Charlie]

Kathy,
I bought the same flannel and pattern but have not gotten around to making mine yet. However, I did purchase a fine set of flannel drawers from CJ Daley (A Fine sutler of CW wares) and his do indeed also have the exposed front. It was told to me by someone more learned than I in the matters of historic clothing that at that time, the current thinking was, it was more sanitatry (sanitary being a very gray area at that time) to keep your privates as free and unencumbered as possible, hence the wide open gap. Tucking ones shirt in front certainly solves the problem, but as I understand it, it was done on purpose.
Just my two cents.

[DougCooper]

Kathy has hit on the age old conundrum of all authentic drawer owners and the reason we are all fond of long tailed shirts. That is a good solution if one does not want to modify the garment by adding a button to ward off drafts, wool/privates contact (ouch) and inadvertant period flashing when wading the river with trousers carried on your head.

Interestingly, the French pattern import drawers sold by Chris Daley have less of a gap. One would not think the French would worry about such things :D

[KathyBradford]

Thank you, all. Chris Daley's French drawers certainly look well made, as do all his things.

I appreciate your advice.

[Stonewall_Greyfox]

I am looking a pair of authentic drawers to wear this spring..naturally I won't want the flannel which for me will be way to hot this spring. Any recommendations on something light to make them out of?

Thanks,

Paul B. Boulden Jr.

RAH VA MIL '04

[Gerkin]

Gentlemen,

I was about to make post on the same subject as the latter of this post. I was curious, what various sorts of cloth have you all seen on original drawers. All I have ever seen has been the common flannel. Has anyone ever seen ticking used? I was also curious about cotton drill. Any help would be great.

[coffee boiler]

Canton flannel really isn't that uncomfortable to wear in the summer as long as it doesn't get into the 90's, as it does a good job of wicking the sweat away from your body.

[Michael Semann]

We are all aware that union issue drawers were, in the main, manufactured primarily of Canton Flannel. However, what other materials can be documented as being used for a lighter weight underdrawers, particularly private purchase and import garments. In the CONFEDERATE SKETCHBOOK, the extant drawers from which the book's pattern is derived are mentioned as being made of a plain weave cotton material. Anyone have any suggestions? Curt,Nick, or Hank, are you out there? Thanks in advance.

[Company Tailor]

Michael,
Actually they weren't "mainly" made from canton flannel but a large variety of materials. Some of the materials I've run across in various property books and other sources have been:

"Linen" (29th PVI QM issue)
"Osnabrig" (1859 pre-war issue - 10th Inf. in the Utah Territory)
"Cotton" (various QM references)
"Muslin" (various QM references)
"Wool" (1859 pre-war issue - Arty Bty in the Utah Territory - warm but ouch!)

...and for civilian, in addition to the above...

Silk (I used to own a pair of dated silk drawers IDed to an 1862 owner - I imagine they were very comfy)

These are just the ones that jump to the front of my memory. Hope this helps.

Best,

[Oldewalnut]

Silk (I used to own a pair of dated silk drawers IDed to an 1862 owner - I imagine they were very comfy)

Interesting, was it raw silk or more refined? I'd like to find something besides muslin for civy drawers. Have a pair of the canton flannel variety.

[Company Tailor]

It was refined silk. They were way too small for me to try on but I imagine they were a joy to wear. I traded them off for bigger and better things years ago.

They were IDed but I never bothered to research the owner (civilian). I'll wager he was filthy stinking rich.

Cheers.

[Canton Zouave]

Gents,

I have a suggestions, somehwat inside a question.

In my search for substitutes for heavy canton flannel, I will run across a lighter woven cotton fabric. "Chamois" as it is labeled, is what I normally find, which is a much lighter ( it does come in heavier weights) 100% cotton fabric than Canton Flannel, but similar in construction. (Appears woven on one side and napped on the other) Did this lighter napped cotton fabric exist at the time? This, I have yet to discover. I have made one pair of drawers out of the material, and it is quite strong, and significantly cooler.

Just a thought as to an alternative.

[Michael Semann]

Thank you greatly for the info on materials called for/used. Unlike other period garments,I haven't made a study of period underclothes, and my knowledge of the subject has gone somewhat neglected. This information widens my options considerably.

[KathyBradford]

Linen is cooler, and if it's woven tightly, it's quite sturdy. The first drawers I made were out of 99 cent a yard Jo-Ann's unbleached muslin. Although all the stress areas were double reinforced, they lasted only about 300 hours before they wore completely through both layers. According to my son, the canton flannel (thanks, Pat Kline) ones I made him this winter are much stronger.

How common was linen or linen/cotton blend for our time? Was there a prevalence North or South? Drawers or shirts? I know this has been discussed in the past, but I don't remember the demographics.

Thank you,

[markj]

Hi,

Lt. James Gillette writing to his family from the Shenandoah Valley VA, 4 August 1862:

"[Send me] 2 thin and fine white cotton or linen shirts without bosoms (like Father's) and with long tails; 2 pair very thin cotton or linen drawers, home-made, so that they will not rip to pieces. I have resolved never to have anything but cotton or linen next my flesh hereafter."

Source: Bird, Harrison K. Jr. "Parcels from Home to a Soldier, 1861-1865." Military Collector & Historian, Spring 1962, p. 1-5.

Regards,

Mark Jaeger

[Ocaliman]

I hope this is the correct forum to post this in. If not, then my apologies. Im just curious as to what the typical soldier wore as underwear. Did they wear one piece long johns with the escape hatch in the rear, and if so, where can I find correct "drawers"?

Your Obedient Servant;

Ben Lenchner
Pvt.
97th Penn. Vol. Inf. Co. "A"

With respect, this is the sort of question that is a little more "101" than the AC forum is really intended for.

[Rob]

If you check the Approved Vendors list, you'll find that quite a few of them sell this item. One picture is worth a thousand words.