1864 Civilian Overcoat pattern from Atlanta History Ctr

[celtfiddler]

I'm curious what the thoughts are from those who've received notification about this pattern. My knowledge of men's civilian clothing is lacking to be able to determine the accuracy level of the pattern.

[Masked Battery]

I've been waiting on this pattern to come out for what seems like forever! I've been saving some satinette I dyed with oak galls for this project, so this pattern just HAS to be accurate... right? :rolleyes:

[Iron Scout]

Kimberley,

This pattern is produced by McKenzie Anderson Schultz of Figleaf Patterns located in Stateburg, SC. McKenzie received her degrees in costume design and pattern drafting in NY and is very accomplished in her art. Not only that, her brother, an accomplished artist, has done the illustrations for the pattern. I doubt you can go wrong. The original garment is almost floor length, double breasted with covered buttons as I remember. I think you'll be very happy with your purchase.

Neill Rose
PLHA
L&W

[vbetts]

Mackenzie sent me these images this afternoon, since I didn't spot them at the Atlanta History site, and there's a faulty link at the moment on her site. This is my first time to try attachments here, so I hope this works.

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net

[tnyankee]

Hello again everyone...
I was lucky enough to have the honor of viewing this coat at the Atlanta History Center about one year ago. The museum had just recieved the coat through a donation. It is an amazing article! It is of a homespun jean material, and very well constructed. I discovered on the outer neck line a series of buttons (I think 3), where I was then informes that it used to have a cape: long since gone. If my memory serves me correctly, the museum has in it's collection a series of letters that the gentleman and his mother had written back and forth discussing the type of coat that he wished her to make, in detail. And the greatest part is that the museum now has the coat in it's collection. From what I was informed at the time the museum was just preparing to have the pattern made. So this is very exciting. Just thought I would add a little info on the coat, I can't wait to make one myself! Good luck to everyone!

Tony DiMaiolo
Top Rail Mess
LCpl / USMC

[tmdreb]

Where would one purchase said pattern(s)?

[vbetts]

This was the email that some of us got:

A sewing pattern is now available for an 1864 civilian overcoat in the Atlanta History Center collection. The highly-anticipated pattern comes with a detailed instruction book for making an authentic reproduction of the overcoat and an optional button-on cape. The original jean cloth overcoat was made by Anne Margaret Magill Smith of Roswell, Georgia, for her son Archibald "Archie" Smith, who wore it while serving with the Georgia Battalion of Cadets during the winter of 1864-65.

Upon receiving the coat, Archie wrote an appreciative letter to his mother: "Near Savannah Dec. 16th [1864] ...I received my bundle when I got here and was very glad of the things ... my over coat is delightful. I almost hated to wear it, it looked so nice and camp spoils any thing so, but I thought there was no use to keep it to look at."

The pattern contains a range of sizes from S-XXXL and sells for $35. To place an order, contact the Museum Shop, 404/814-4075. For more information, contact Susan Neill.

Susan Neill
Curator of Textiles & Social History | Atlanta History Center
130 West Paces Ferry Road NW
Atlanta, Georgia 30305
p | 404.814.4059 f | 404.814.2041
e | SNeill@AtlantaHistoryCenter.com <mailto:SNeill@AtlantaHistoryCenter.com>

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net

[tmdreb]

Thanks, Vicki! This hobby wouldn't be the same without you.

[Jefferson Guards]

"It is of a homespun jean material, and very well constructed."

I am interested in learning why you believe the jean to be "homespun" as opposed to purchased.

Would it be possible to have the letters surrounding the manufacture of this overcoat posted?

[vbetts]

They are in _Death of a Confederate: Selections from the Letters of the Archibald Smith Family of Roswell, Georgia, 1864-1956_. Edited by Arthur N. Skinner and James L. Skinner. Athens: University of Georgia Press, 1996.

In the fall of 1864 Mrs. Smith is evidently making overcoats for both of her boys. I've included the parts talking about both:

Note: by this time the family has moved to Valdosta.
(p.135) Mother to William, Oct. 24, 1864--"I wrote to ask you about the pockets of your overcoat. I cannot remember where & how they were cut. Do let me know as soon as convenient whether they are cut as sack pockets usually are or whether more long ways of the coat & how far from the arm hole, also the length of strap behind & how far below the arm hole measuring along the seam where it is put in. If it has only breast pockets measure the distance from the collar."
(p.138) William to Mother, Nov. 4, 1864--"The overcoat has but one pocket. It is on the left side outside and slopes downward a little. It is 9 inches from the top of the coat 5 from the front edge and 3 from the armhole." (sketch from the letter on opposite page)
(p.139) Helen to William, Nov. 4, 1864--"Mother wants to know if you will want your overcoat cape again. She is making an overcoat for Sonnie and if you do not want the cape she will give that to him instead of making another, but there is no necessity to do it if you think at all that you will want it."
(p.158) Archie to Mother, Dec 16th--"I received my bundle when I got here and was very glad of the things, specially the pants as I was getting pretty ragged and my over coat is delightful. I almost hated to wear it, it looked so nice and camp spoils any thing so, but I thought there was no use to keep it to look at."

There may be other letters from this time period in the Smith collection not included in this book.

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net

[tnyankee]

I am not sure exactly as to the material origion, I was told at the time of viewing that the material was homespun. Now wether that was meant to be of commercial factor or realistically homespun I am not too sure. That is simply what I was told. I do not recall the gentlemans last name but his first was Kyle, he was the first that was able to help in the viewing and general info of the coat.

Tony DiMaiolo
Top Rail Mess
Lcpl / USMC

[Matthew Semple]

Has anyone made a coat from this pattern? I am wondering how difficult the pattern is to follow.

[Kiev Thomason]

Has anyone made a coat from this pattern? I am wondering how difficult the pattern is to follow.
I have made two of these and will be starting a third really soon.They are not that hard but they do take some time and a whole bunch of top stiching.The pattern is very simple to follow and has great research with it.

Kiev Thomason

[Spinster]

Kiev,

I'm curious--the sheer dress pattern by the same maker had a 30 page booklet that was a fine step by step guide to basic period sewing for women. It was almost 'period dressmaking for dummies' and we were very pleased with the results, especially since we were scaling up one of their 'fat girl' patterns for an even more portly lass. (I'm pleased to report that lass has since lost a whole person and the dress itself has made 3 very large pinner aprons, one child's dress, and a whole bunch of poke sacks)

Is the instruction booklet for the men's overcoat similarly detailed in period sewing and fitting techiniques for men's outer wear?

[neocelt]

Ladies & Gents,

I had the honor & pleasure of surveying this artifact about a week ago, and would like to add a couple of comments/notes to what has already been posted. The outer garment (or "shell") is constructed of a very interesting heavyweight jean cloth; it is very coarsely woven with many slubs, and IMHO is hand-loomed. It bears no resemblance to any commercial jean cloth being offered by various sources today (and I wish someone would produce more of these "homemade" type textiles--they are under-represented in the hobby). The cotton warp threads are not visible at all on the outside of the garment (but were clearly visible in a small frayed spot near one of the buttons and through a small tear in the lining ;-) ). The color is now a warm tan, which of course could be the result of the color shift common to various natural dyestuffs/mordants. The buttons that lie under the collar for the attachment of the cape are black china (rather thick & semi-conical in shape), while those used to close the coat are slighlty convex and either gutta percha or hard rubber (tough to determine).

The pattern is the most professional presentation I've seen for an historical garment to date. The aforementioned booklet is 50 pages (!) and comb-bound for ease of use. It includes historical background data, information on the original textiles involved, very clearly presented "how-to" information on relevant period sewing techniques (as well as useful tailoring tips), layout guides, and of course, step-by-step assembly instructions. There are even a number of places where the pattern offers the user the option of creating an exact replica of THIS artifact (including piecing, construction anomalies, etc.) or using modern sewing techniques to produce an overcoat that is representative of this type of period garment. It also includes separate instructions for hand-sewing vs. machine sewing (where relevant). All of this information is well organized and thoroughly and clearly illustrated. As a novice at using such commercial patterns, I must say that I found the pattern itself to be rather daunting, but I suspect it would pose no problem to anyone familiar with the fundamentals of industry-standard modern patterns. Personally, I couldn't be more pleased with the pattern and its accompanying handbook--I just hope I can find some appropriate material for the project (any hints would be greatly appreciated!).

Cheers,

[Kiev Thomason]

Kiev,

I'm curious--the sheer dress pattern by the same maker had a 30 page booklet that was a fine step by step guide to basic period sewing for women. It was almost 'period dressmaking for dummies' and we were very pleased with the results, especially since we were scaling up one of their 'fat girl' patterns for an even more portly lass. (I'm pleased to report that lass has since lost a whole person and the dress itself has made 3 very large pinner aprons, one child's dress, and a whole bunch of poke sacks)

Is the instruction booklet for the men's overcoat similarly detailed in period sewing and fitting techiniques for men's outer wear?
Hey Mrs.Lawson! Yes it is very easy to follow and is like coat making for first time nonsewing men dummies...like myself :D i found it really well written and documented.

[Spinster]

Both Nick and Kiev have illustrated what I found on the women's dress from this pattern company---the documentation alone was worth the price of the pattern.

So, while I'm not looking to make an overcoat, likely I'll get the pattern just to get that little sprial bound book that come with it. We've about worn ours out on the dressmaking side, even though we only really made the dress one time.

[pipthelimey]

All,
I own one of these coats, made by Nate Petersburg. Back when the pattern came out, I wanted one, (but am posessed of no sewing skills) so I purchased the pattern, material, etc, and sent it all to Nate. I left the pattern with Nate, so if you can convince him to make you one, you won't have to purchase the pattern. I used a darker brown jean, and lined it with red wool flannel from B Black and Son's. The buttons are Goodyear rubber. It's quite warm, and that's without the cape. It's large enough to wear comfortably over a uniform, and very warm to sleep in. I highly reccomend it.

Andrew Jerram

[LibertyHallVols]

For those who have made a coat from this pattern:
Do you know how many yards of jeans are required? I will have the opportunity to do some fabric shopping on the way to Perryville.

Thanks!

[pipthelimey]

I believe it was 7.

Andrew Jerram

[Matthew Semple]

I had the honor & pleasure of surveying this artifact about a week ago, and would like to add a couple of comments/notes to what has already been posted. The outer garment (or "shell") is constructed of a very interesting heavyweight jean cloth; it is very coarsely woven with many slubs, and IMHO is hand-loomed. It bears no resemblance to any commercial jean cloth being offered by various sources today...The cotton warp threads are not visible at all on the outside of the garment (but were clearly visible in a small frayed spot near one of the buttons and through a small tear in the lining ;-) ). The color is now a warm tan, which of course could be the result of the color shift common to various natural dyestuffs/mordants. The buttons that lie under the collar for the attachment of the cape are black china (rather thick & semi-conical in shape), while those used to close the coat are slighlty convex and either gutta percha or hard rubber (tough to determine).
Nick,

Thanks. Great description. What material and color is the lining?

[neocelt]

Matthew,

The lining in the body and sleeves of the coat is a medium-weight, coarsely-woven cotton domestic in a tabby weave. I didn't get the thread count (sorry!)--perhaps another reader can contribute this data (it's not noted in the booklet accompanying the pattern). It appears to be a light, dirty brown color now, but I suspect it was natural (undyed) color in its original state.

Cheers,

[JordanRicketts]

All,

Found a link that has some video of this overcoat...

http://www.wabe.org/history/smith_overcoat.html

Jordan Ricketts

[Matthew Semple]

All,

Found a link that has some video of this overcoat...

http://www.wabe.org/history/smith_overcoat.html

Jordan Ricketts

Would anyone know if this video is still available from another source? The website link that Mr. Ricketts posted seems to not have the video anymore.