Machine sewing

[Dutchman Dick]

I have heard of the chain-stitch sewing machines that were used during the Civil War, and seen pictures of the stitching they made. What I'm wondering is, were straight-stitching machines also used in any capacity? Did they even exist? I have an old White "vibrating shuttle" treadle machine that was my great-grandmother's. It was made some time between the late 1880's to the late 1890's; the patent dates go from 1872-1881. I know it will handle heavier fabrics that many modern machines won't. It looks well worn, but still functions perfectly.

[ElizabethClark]

Do a quick search on the forum, and you'll find some posts on sewing machine history in the citizen-discussion side of things.

Short, dirty answer (on a spoon): yes, lock-stitch machines were manufactured and in use. I have no information on how much they were used for military clothing, but by the 1860s, lock-stitch was definitely in use on citizen clothing.

[Dutchman Dick]

JOOC, why does there seem to be so much emphasis on the Willcox & Gibbs chainstitch machines? I e-mailed Phil Cavanaugh at The Haversack Depot, and he replied that he has never seen an example of a Civil War uniform that was sewn with a chainstitch machine, and that he believed the early government specifications called for lockstitch machine sewing. Can somebody clarify this better?

BTW, I just won a later Willcox & Gibbs on Ebay (with the automatic tensioning) for $101, including shipping, which seems like a pretty good price considering what I have seen them going for. So if the chainstitching IS more authentic, I will have a proper machine...

[Dutchman Dick]

JOOC, why does there seem to be so much emphasis on the Willcox & Gibbs chainstitch machines? I e-mailed Phil Cavanaugh at The Haversack Depot, and he replied that he has never seen an example of a Civil War uniform that was sewn with a chainstitch machine, and that he believed the early government specifications called for lockstitch machine sewing. Can somebody clarify this better?

BTW, I just won a later Willcox & Gibbs on Ebay (with the automatic tensioning) for $101, including shipping, which seems like a pretty good price considering what I have seen them going for. So if the chainstitching IS more authentic, I will have a proper machine...

Anybody? Nobody?

[AZReenactor]

Richard, I think the key would be to match the type of stitching used on the item you are reproducing. If the original was chain, or lock, or hand stitched you'll want to duplicate that stitch on your reproduction.

[Dutchman Dick]

Problem is, I don't have any museums within several hundreds of miles from where I live so I can examine original Union pieces. All I have is the internet, and several reference books (the complete "Lord's CWCE", and the CRRC 1 & 2). From those, I gather all of the Schuylkill depot stuff was hand-sewn, while the J.T. Martin contract stuff was at least partially machine-sewn, but I haven't found any references as to what sort of machine sewing was used (other than in knapsacks). And this is where I am running into confusion. Seems everywhere I turn people are telling me "you can't go wrong if you sew with a chainstitch machine", but what if it IS wrong for what I'm trying to reproduce?

[ElizabethClark]

You absolutely *CAN* go wrong with a chainstitch machine--if the original wasn't chainstitched, and if you'd prefer it to hold up well. Chain stitch has a "magical" feature... if you don't get all the threads tied off properly, or one stitch pops, you can unravel the entire seam with a very gentle tug on one little thread. That's likely the reason you found a mention of lock stitch machine use specified in the records--they don't unravel the way chain stitch can.

I realize that sewing machines are a power tool many men are just starting to get familiar with. There are a lot of misconceptions regarding mid-century machines out there right now, and the "chain stitch is better" myth is widely circulating. We need a CW-reenacting Snopes. Chain stitch machines were readily available for home sewing use, but lock-stitch was also pretty darn popular, and for many good reasons, the durability of the stitch being a big one.

A lock stitch then is formed in the same mechanical way as a lock-stitch now, so there's no inherent virtue in using an antique lock-stitch machine to sew repros. It's fun and cool, but the stitch won't be different in function or appearance than if you use a fully computerized modern machine, or a Harvest Gold mechanical from the 1970s.

If doing a historic demo reproducing garments in a historic setting, then you'd want to use whatever methods and machines were originally used on the type of garment you're replicating.

Being far away from museums myself, I sympathize. Consider writing a letter to the curator. They may have spec sheets on various garments (free or to purchase), or be willing, time available, to write you a brief note back with the bit of information you're needing. Staffing is usually quite tight, but it can't hurt to ask nicely, and include a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

[Dutchman Dick]

Thanks! Sounds like I should probably save the chainstitch machine for such things as civilian-type shirts & drawers, and maybe haversacks, then. I've heard elsewhere that there ARE examples of CSA uniforms made with chainstitch machines, but the South was a bit more "hard up" than the North and often had to "make do" with what was available. Especially since the Willcox & Gibbs machines cost half as much as contemporary Singers !

[OldKingCrow]

Advert for W&G machine and others

Richmond Dispatch
February 21, 1861

Wilcox & Gibbs' Sewing Machine.

The highest premium awarded at the Virginia State Fair, Oct. 1860, as the best Machine for general use.

These celebrated Machines; also, the Sloat and Ladd, Webster & Co.'S Sewing Machines, are or sale by J. A. Belvin,

Belvin's Block, 12th and Governor streets. ja 28--1m

[AZReenactor]

Actually, Richard it sounds like you maybe should hold off on sewing until you've done a bit more research. The devil is in the details and there is no simple one size fits all guideline like you seem to wish for. If you want to accurately sew reproduction uniforms you will find that the investment into research will pay much higher dividends than nearly anything else you do or buy.

One resource you failed to mention, which I highly recommend is your local public library(s). Even if the library itself is small most can obtain books for patrons through Inter-Library loan for a small fee, if not for free. There is a heck of a lot in books that hasn't yet made it to the Internet.

Also, keep in mind that you don't always have to travel to large Civil War museums. Even out here in the far West many local museums and historical societies have Civil War era clothing and artifacts in their collections and frequently will go out of their way to provide access to serious researchers.

By doing your own homework, you'll avoid the pitfalls of conjecture and reenactorisms much more easily by simply being able to recognize them or at least to verify them objectively.

Thanks! Sounds like I should probably save the chainstitch machine for such things as civilian-type shirts & drawers, and maybe haversacks, then. I've heard elsewhere that there ARE examples of CSA uniforms made with chainstitch machines, but the South was a bit more "hard up" than the North and often had to "make do" with what was available. Especially since the Willcox & Gibbs machines cost half as much as contemporary Singers !