Caring for my brogans

[ES1861]

Gentlemen,

I've just bought my first pair of brogans. The soles started to wear out real quickly. Any ideas on how
to protect the soles from wearing out?

Hobnails, heelrims, neatsfoot oil?

Any other hints on how to care for one's brogans?

Thankyou in advance,

Eric Seppälä

[trippcor]

Eric,
Hobnails and Heel plates will certainly help protect the soles of your brogans. However even with out them your soles should last for a couple of years before developing a hole depending on use of course. I have a pair of Serio brogans (shameless plug) I have had for eight years without either heel plates or hobnails. Though the soles are very worn they still have not worn completely through.

The best thing is try to avoid pavement and rough gravel as much as possible. Keep the uppers clean and oiled. (Everyone has their own favorite when it comes to oiling leather gear. I personally use saddle soap and mink oil.) If you do that your brogans should last several years.

[FC Barlow]

After every event, I wash my brogans with warm water and dish detergent. I let them dry and then apply either Neatsfoot oil or Pecards Leather Conditioner (the paste). Pecards usually does a better job of making the leather more supple and takes a few days to totally absorb into the brogan. Even though there is controversy over the historical accuracy and prevalence of heel plates, I think they are a good investment - especially if you spend over $100 for a pair of brogans.

Make sure to oil the soles, afterall they are leather, and are usually the first to crack after those cold events where you leave your brogans in the fire to warm up your feet.

Take good care of your brogans and they will take care of you.

Sincerely,

Todd Berkoff

[dusty27]

I'm obviously in the minority here, but I have NEVER treated my brogans with anything. I have owned two pairs since I started in 1994 and the second pair I bought 2 years ago.

I haven't participated in any long marches, but several short ones, usual movements, all weather, all road coverings, etc. They have wood pegs and heel plates.

Maybe I'm lucky?

[pfeiffer3964]

Mike:

I must be lucky too! I never treated mine either, and my first pair lasted for 15 years. Of course, I had them re-soled once during that period, but my feet just grew too much and blew out the stitching.

Here's hoping that my next pair lasts just as long!

Regards,

[GWilson]

I also have never done anything to my brogans. I bought mine from a quality vendor and have been wearing them for about three years and there still going strong. I believe it is where you purcahse your brogans and the quality of the vendor that makes brogans last a long time. Does that make any sence? I would like to hear more about heal plates. Where they often used?

[FC Barlow]

Strangely, a number of my pards have bought "Sutler Row" brogans which have lasted 5-8 years in some cases with consideral wear and tear. The more authentic brograns (Mattimore Harness, MB&S, etc.) seem to last just as long. I'd prefer more accurate-looking brogans myself, as they do enhance your overall impression, I believe.

As for general upkeep, I'm the say way with my leathers. I oil all my leathers - waist belts, cartridge box, musket and canteen slings, knapsack harness, etc. I guess I'm just a stickler for my leathers. I'm the way with my brass. Guess I should join a Regular Army unit!

Todd

[Jarnagin]

“After every event, I wash my brogans with warm water and dish detergent. I let them dry and then apply either Neatsfoot oil or Pecards Leather Conditioner (the paste). Pecards usually does a better job of making the leather more supple and takes a few days to totally absorb into the brogan.”

Todd,

The good news here is you getting rid of some of the oil you put into the leather by over oiling, but the bad news is you are washing out tannin. The loss of the tannin is really bad thing to do, and in the long run will do a great amount of damage. What you are doing is like a bleaching operation done by a tannery. By using soap the high PH will remove the tannins from surface along with dissolving some of the oil at the same time. The second thing you are doing is leaving water in the leather to help the new oil when apply it to oxidize even faster. (see info below about oxidization)

Here is information on oil and the problems they cause.

Oils: Catch 22. It seems logical to lubricate the leather with oil to make it moist when in fact adding oil causes great damage. Oils used in a large quantity weakens the tensile strength of the leather fibers. This can occur with as little as 21% oil content in the leather. Leather coming from the tannery has an oil content of only 16 to 19%. The best guess I have is to keep the oil content under 30% overall.

Oxidation: How oil penetrates is through oxidation. All oils will oxidize over time. It just depends on the type of oil and conditions to how long this process takes. See Notes at the bottom of the page.

Oil softens the leather by changing the shape and placement of the fibers. Oil penetrates the fibers causing them to distend and swell. Some of the fibers will move out of the tightly packed order into a looser order. This is what makes the leather soft. These physical changes in the leather cause it to become weaker and weaker. This process is irreparable. I have seen this in shoes that have been oiled to the extent that the leather began to crack and tear. Over oiling is one of the worst things you can do to leather. Remember, a little oil goes a long way.

Please do not use any oils that contain mineral oils or listed as petroleum distillates. This type of oil over time breaks down into a solvent, and since solvent can de-tan, you get double damage. If you must oil, use a natural oil like "pure Neatsfoot" or a good grade of tallow.

This link has more information on the ageing and care that leather needs

http://www.jarnaginco.com/leather%20...20original.htm

The US Army like polishes for the care of leather equipment. I would try a good polish before you go through all that you were doing.
One other thing is check out the bottle or tub and see if any thing like this is listed petroleum distillates, if so put it down and walk away. See not above for information on the damages the come from petroleum distillates. This information I got from a leather chemist.

I have updated this page with more information and a few new pictures.

http://www.jarnaginco.com/leather%20...ns%20index.htm

I have found a recipe for a shoe finish in an 1850’s book and this answers many questions about how they really did finish shoes. The finish is a simple one step process and I have tried and was impressed with the results. This type of finish should not break down as fast as modern finishes, it seem they knew a lot more than we give them credit for.

Happy holidays
David Jarnagin

[FC Barlow]

Dave:

Thank you for your very thorough response. I have to alter my statement a bit. I don't use soap when cleaning my brogans - just warm water to lift the mud off the shoe, then I oil it.

I don't think I over oil my leathers. Maybe 4-5 times per year and more often with my brogans. There is nothing I hate more than stiff brogans. They just feel more comfortable on my feet when properly oiled.

Thanks Dave. Love your leathers.

Regards,

Todd

[VMI88]

There seem to be a lot of different schools of thought on using oil to condition leather (both original and new pieces). Some people swear up and down that you should never use neatsfoot oil compound because it contains petroleum products which will break down leather. However, these same people frequently recommend Pecard's as the best thing since instant grits. It's my understanding that Pecard's is basically vaseline (i.e., petroleum jelly) with some natural oils mixed in.

Other people say that 100% neatsfoot oil will turn rancid, but I find this hard to believe as neatsfoot oil is made from cows' hooves, and is very similar to the natural oils in leather.

David, your information is some of the most well-researched I've seen posted, and is very helpful. I'm just curious about where Pecard's fits into the mix. In my experience, I've used Pecard's, 100% neatsfoot oil, and neatsfoot oil compound at various times, and I can't say I've had any bad reactions to any of them. I'm using only 100% neatsfoot oil now to be on the safe side, but it would be nice to see some kind of definitive information. Are there any published studies that might shed some light on the situation?