Spaulding jacket/Illinois Infantry Jackets

[GreencoatCross]

I'm glad you guys got to see it in person. Pretty cool jacket! When we were walking into the meeting room to look at it, from a distance my first impression was that it was a NY state jacket. As exciting as that would have been, I was pretty excited when it wasn't. The little details got me going like the sack coat cuffs you mentioned. Did you notice that the cuffs once had small buttons attached, but are now missing?

I'm still not sure what to make of the stylistic similarities it has in common with NY state jackets. My pet theory is that perhaps the firm that produced the Spaulding jacket had a NY jacket to compare it to...something like the "sealed pattern" uniforms at Schuylkill Arsenal. Maybe the local manufacturers retained some features out of functionality but cut back on the superfluous stuff like trim, exterior pocket, and the NY style chest linings that would generate a lot of hand-sewing. The way the jacket is constructed also seems to hint at a streamlined mass-production technique, i.e. the interior machine and hand sewing is in brown thread, topstitching is black thread, and the buttonholes are black silk. I can see a building full of people cranking these things out through piece work.

[ScottCross]

The way the jacket is constructed also seems to hint at a streamlined mass-production technique, i.e. the interior machine and hand sewing is in brown thread, topstitching is black thread, and the buttonholes are black silk. I can see a building full of people cranking these things out through piece work.

Brian,

I couldn't agree more. The amount of machine sewing on this garment and the incredible amount of top stitching (with very little handwork, no flat felling of seams, & etc.) just screams mass production. It was very simply made, but still retained some finer features you would not see on most Federal government contracts. The button holes were very well done, about 32 stitches per inch I think, and at least it did have padding in the chest and some quilting.

And yet...NO POCKETS!

[CompanyWag]

...The little details got me going like the sack coat cuffs you mentioned. Did you notice that the cuffs once had small buttons attached, but are now missing?

I believe you are quite right. The remnants of the button thread can be seen in the attached image. I was also surprised that the fabric appeared to be the same as sack coat wool with a very bold diagonal twill weave. No fine broadcloth or satinette here.

We were fortunate that the museum alllowed me to bring in studio lighting to photograph the jacket. Without that, taking any detailed shots would have been hopeless with the low ambient lighting in the gallery.

Paul McKee

[John of the Skulkers Mess]

Bravo!

Which side was the belt loop on? Was there any indication that there was one on the other side at one time?

Me jealous?!?!?

[Brian Baird]

John,
The belt loop was on the left side. There was no sign that there was one on the right.
The coat buttons are "I" buttons but are the size of officer's buttons, not sack coat size and there are no marks on any of them.
Brian Baird

[csuniforms]

In the field records at the Springfield, Ill. State Historical Society are the papers of the the 17th Illinois Infantry. In those papers is a memo for payment for "jackets" [1863] in lieu of the standard issue blouse or frock coat, under special orders US Quartermaster Dept.-- They were buying jackets-- artillery and cavalry cut-- without the lace--with subtle sewing configurations, for a special price from the Quartermaster. This is the same process used for those Regiments who wore Zouave uniforms issued by the US Quartermaster.
Also,you have to remember that the State of Illinois had over 15 different suppliers of jackets, with a probable 15 different shades of blue and gray and construction. This supply system continued into early 1862 when the Government took over. -- F. Sarmiento & Co. in the latter months of 1861and into 1862 were shipping regular QM goods like frocks and blouses, Artillery and Cavalry jackets, in huge quantities under contract. That is why you see in photos the Illinois Regiments numbered in the 70's thru 100's range, in frocks and caps and Hardees.-- I have the figures in my notes.
In my humble opinion, without an extant suriving example to work from, you can use period photos to reproduce the jacket. We do have at least one description of the cloth as, "blue satinette". The variation in jackets viewed in photos is confusing, but I am doing work on dating the photos to the issue dates and the different contract suppliers for jackets. Using the New York jacket as a pattern is fine for the troops serving in Missouri under Fremont, but in those Regiments we also see differences in cut and trim. Fremont was involved in issuing clothing for his Army in Missouri-- and some of the jackets came from out East, or they were using that NYpattern at the QM Depot in St. Louis.

CSuniforms
Tom Arliskas

[Mark Susnis]

Check out this latest offering on Ebay:
The cardboard frame / holder around this image is obviously post-war however check out the image for yourself
http://cgi.ebay.com/Outdoor-Illinois...item3a591025c1

v/r
Mark Susnis

[Ian M.]

Bad link -- eBay shows "Item Removed"

[GreencoatCross]

Ian,

This should work: http://cgi.ebay.com/Outdoor-Illinois...item3a591025c1

Anyone who is interested in the Spaulding jacket or state jackets in general should stay tuned...

[Ian M.]

It sure does. Interesting photo. Shows to be a 9-button front with shoulder straps and stand collar. Tried to make out cuff detail (buttons, no buttons?) and whether it had a belt loop(s), but simply could not. Great find though. Anyone else see details I'm missing?