Knit Fabrics

[508preach]

I was curious as to when Cotton Knit Fabric and Wool Knit Fabric first became popular for garments. And would it be acceptable for shirting and drawers and also was it used for other garments as well?

[ozarkcat]

Well, (and keep in mind, this is from my knowledge of pre-CW era fiber history), I know that use of cotton and wool in stockings goes back to 11th century Mamluk (Ethnic Socks & Stockings - Priscilla A. Gibson-Roberts, XRX Inc. ISBN 0-9646391-0-6) and fisherman's sweaters were used in the British Isles and Canada as early as 1600 (Patterns for Guernseys, Jerseys & Arans, Gladys Thompson, Dover Publications, ISBN 0-486-22703-0). You might also try Richard Rutt's "A History of Hand Knitting" (Interweave Press, ISBN 0934026351), which has a ton of really great information - but as a fair warning, it's considered a rare book and is hard to lay hands on for under $50, so you may want to check out interlibrary loan as a possibility. Hope that helps!

[Elaine Kessinger]

I would need to do more research to document when knit garments first became popular... but photos of California miners and other laborers show a cotton knit or wool knit undershirt. I've heard of knit drawers in this period, but shortly after, 1870s into 1890s were the heyday of knit woolen undergarments (sometimes red, it was thought healthful)... when "long johns" and combinations became extremely popular for men and women both. (as a perusal of medical tracts and store catologues will show)
(You do mean that sort of knit fabric garment and not sweaters, mufflers, mittens and the like, right?)

Hopefully helpful-

[Virginia Mescher]

I was curious as to when Cotton Knit Fabric and Wool Knit Fabric first became popular for garments. And would it be acceptable for shirting and drawers and also was it used for other garments as well?

This subject came up on another list and I had some information in my files.

Knit fabric had been produced in England and France since the latter part of the 16th century so it was not anything new. At first it was made for stockings and it took a 100 years for it to become an established industry in England. By the end of the 18th century improvements had been made so the the machines could knit wider fabrics so shirts, drawers and vests could be made from the pieces or multiple stocking could be cut from one width. The machines could also knit about 40 types of fabrics by 1800.

In Scissors and Yardstick by Brown and Gates (1872) there was a section on hosiery. They not only discussed stockings and socks but described knit fabrics and shirts and drawers.

"Stockinett. A knit fabric, usually composed of wool, or cotton and wool carded together. It is, however, sometimes made of silk, or silk and wool.
It derives its name from the resemblance and similarity to stockings knit by hand.
It is not woven plain, or flat and smooth like ordinary goods, but knit (necessarily) in a cylindrical form. This is cut into widths, and consequently it has no selvage. It is woven both white and mixed, or clouded.
Double fold. Rolled. Width 4-4 to 8-4."

"Shirts and Drawers are of various kinds and sizes. They are usually made of stockinett, which is cut, and the seams are sewed, as in any ordinary garment. Some of the best qualities are woven entire throughout. Any extended description is considered unnecessary, as everyone is, of course familiar with them; however, a few suggestions relative to the sizes may be of interest:
Gent's shirts vary in size from about 34 to 44 inches.
Gent's drawers from 32 to 42 inches
Ladies' vests from 26 to 38 "
Ladies' pants from 22 to 36 "
The sizes vary, but these can be taken as the standards
These goods are also made for children, and are of proportionately smaller sizes."

"Cardigan.
A woolen fabric, knit like stockinett, but much coarser and heavier. Coarse ribs, or cords, extend lengthwise the piece. It derives its name from Cardigan, in England, where it is manufactured. It is the material of which the common "cardigan jackets" are made."

If you do a Google Books search for knit drawers you will find quite a few hits for the years 1840-1865. Knit shirts were also included in some mentions of the knit drawers.

[508preach]

Awesome, that is the exact information I have been looking for, thank you!