Re: kepi cloth
As with many things about our impressions, there's not going to be a "one size fits most" answer to this, and again, it's a matter of time, location, unit, etc. Some units were issued kepis, others not. Some men that were issued kepis like them, others loathed the things. The best thing you are going to be able to do about this is determine the theater and unit(s) you will most often be portraying. After that, see if any of those were issued kepis based on surviving examples, period images, etc., and go from there.
Currently a History Hippy at South Union Shaker Village
Member of the original Pickett's Mill Interpretive Volunteer Staff & Co. D, 17th Ky Vol. Inf
Co-Creator of the States Rights Guard in '92