Simplicity Men's Patterns

[tmdreb]

Justin, I am not surprised by your result. I would agree with your assessment to stay with the good patterns. My main curiosity with the Simplicity line comes from the fact that they offer a few patterns unavailable elsewhere, like the undershirt, wheel cap and some variations in their drawer patterns.

I really do wish someone would come out with good frock patterns, both US and CS. They could sell a few, I'm sure.

[Canton Zouave]

Y'All.

Me and Elizabeth have talked about this before.

I have personally spoke with Martha McCain through assorted emails, and have expressed my thoughts about period correct pattern drafting. I have looked at all of the patterns for men featured in the "Fashion Historian" line. Martha is well versed in period garments and tailoring techniques, but unfortunately "Commercialization" sucked the life out of good patterns. Add to that "Modernization" of the patterns leaves us with what comes out as a great folded mass of nasty onion skin.

I know that the pants are based on the Salisbury Pattern of drafting. This was a period Tailoring method developed by Wibur S. Salisbury, and is featured in R.L. Shep's "The Civil War Gentlemen: 1860's Apparel Arts & Uniforms". What kills the pattern is the modern drafting and suggestions for modern sewing techniques. Having a good knowledge of period patterning and sewing techniques, you may be able to reverse the modern techniques and create a useable suitable period pattern.

I examined the shirt pattern in the series. As I noted in another post, the patterns and instruction dont meet our standards of "Pattern, Materials, & Construction". This is not to say that correction can not be made to make this pattern functional. The shirt in the pattern is copied from the original on the on line informational page. The pattern does a good job in showing how to properly install a neck gusset, and also the tail vent gussets. This style of gusset is what we see in the #7 shirt in William Brown's book "Thoughts on Men's Shirts In America, 1750-1900". This aside the patterns instruction do very little in teaching us period sewing techniques, period button placement, or ideas on period fabrics. In addition, the styling of the shirt is more reminiscent of an earlier style shirt meant for wear with a neck stock. I personally am partial to period shirts along the lines of the #7 shirt already mentioned.

The one interesting aspect of what Ms. McCain had to say in her writings to me, is that there is more patterns in the works. She has research for "French Pattern" shirts. I would really like to see a shirt pattern for the French Yoke System that Hank Trent mentioned on the old site.

To all of this, I want to add that the informational site does make a nice basic primer for period clothes. It is not a definitive study, but a good overview. In addition, the men's undergarment patterns are straight from Godey's. However, they still utilize modern drafting and sewing techniques.
See Mark Jaeger's post on Godey's Scans.

http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/...ead.php?t=5632

I still think that making the effort to support these patterns at this time may be a waste. The effort to revamp the pattern for a simple shirt could have been spent buying "A Work Woman's Guide" and doing it the period way. I do think that the patterns can be worked through to properly reflect period techniques, but many of us dont have the time. (Well, I have the time right now...while waiting for surgery...but most of us dont.) If there was to be a set of patterns that could be reworked for the better good of our group...it may best be spent on the "Flannel Waiste Coat" and other undergarments. The other patterns are easily available through correct sources.

These are my thoughts, though it seems like I can go on forever.

[lydee54]

I wote Simplicity customer service, they forward my questions to Martha McCain
( I wanted info on constructing more authentic dresses using period sewing techniques and proper materials, she personally e-mailed me with closeup pictures of the original garments she based her woman's patterns on.) She also sent me some very helpful information on seam and hem finishes. She is a very gracious lady, and I really appreciated the valuable information and assistance she has given me. I also wrote Simplicity requesting they put more information an their website, including closeups of the original garments. I found the pictures really help.



Lydja Urban

aka lydee54

[ElizabethClark]

I'll just add a final comment, then close the thread (keeping it as a reference for the future.) If anyone has a men's pattern review they'd like added to this thread, please send it to me directly by private message on the forum, or by email to elizabethstewartclark@hotmail.com and I'll add it in.

I think it's been well-covered here, by some folks with knowledge of historic construction and sewing techniques: like the other Fashion Historian patterns from Simplicity, the men's things have had modern sewing techniques (at least) added to the designer's research, and one must have a working knowledge of appropriate sewing techniques of the period to retrofit them.

For several of the items, there do exist patterns from other publishers that have the research, accurate construction, etc all in one place, which is very helpful to the novice sewist.

And, one final caveat: though the Martha McCain/Fashion Historian line may be re-workable by someone with specific knowledge, there are no other pattern lines currently produced by the "Big 4" makers (Simplicity, Butterick, McCalls, Vogue, and their subsidiaries) that even approach the minimal re-tweak standard. Your best bet is always to go back to original sources, and to focus on patterns that share that research with you, in order to help you make a very informed choice as to whether or not a particular pattern is right for your particular impression.