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Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

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  • Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

    Hello pards,

    My question is on the subject of the underarm sleeve gussets for Federal issued shirts. After having the gussets cut out, what is the best way to attach them to the shirt? Would you use overcasting, a running stitch, or some other type of stitch to attach these. I am trying to get this shirt right but just can't get these sleeve gussets in. I would be much obliged to any help or advice. Thanks.
    Ryan Stull
    37th NC Co B
    stull6@charter.net

  • #2
    Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

    Eallo Ryan,

    If you're talking about the 1851 pattern domet flannel issue shirt, I have found that the gussets are to be sewn and felled like all the other seams on the shirt.

    Definitely check out these:

    http://pcalloway.tripod.com/articles/shirts.html

    Nelson, Dean, Military Collector and Historian, The Union "Army Standard Size and Make" shirt, Page 110, Vol. XLVII, No.3 Fall, 1995, Washington, D.C.

    If I can help, just PM me and I'll be happy to help. I am in earnest,

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

      thankyou for your response. what is the easiest way of attaching these? would you attach the gusset to the sleeve first before sewing it onto the main section of the shirt or some other way? now that i know the correct stitch to use, i cannot figure out how to attach them and make them even on both sides.
      Ryan Stull
      37th NC Co B
      stull6@charter.net

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

        Originally posted by privstull
        would you attach the gusset to the sleeve first before sewing it onto the main section of the shirt ...?
        Yep! That's how I've done it.
        John Wickett
        Former Carpetbagger
        Administrator (We got rules here! Be Nice - Sign Your Name - No Farbisms)

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

          Originally posted by privstull
          thankyou for your response. what is the easiest way of attaching these? would you attach the gusset to the sleeve first before sewing it onto the main section of the shirt or some other way? now that i know the correct stitch to use, i cannot figure out how to attach them and make them even on both sides.
          Try this: sew one edge of the gusset to one edge of the sleeve seam, right sides together, even with the end of the sleeve (armscye end). If you lay this assembly flat, it looks like a rectangle with a square sticking up at one corner. Next, (again, right sides together) allow for the wrist slit & sew the sleeve seam, when you reach the gusset, just continue sewing right up the edge sticking out 'til you reach the end. This is as clear as I can describe it..

          finished should look like this: ______________________
          >------------------------
          (sorta) ______________________

          Armscye Cuff

          Then just fell the seams. Gusset is now part of the "sleeve assembly"
          ready to be joined to the shirt body. Hope this is helpful!

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

            Originally posted by fidlr1
            Try this: sew one edge of the gusset to one edge of the sleeve seam, right sides together, even with the end of the sleeve (armscye
            finished should look like this: ______________________
            >------------------------
            (sorta) ______________________

            Armscye Cuff

            Then just fell the seams. Gusset is now part of the "sleeve assembly"
            ready to be joined to the shirt body. Hope this is helpful!

            Arrgh--tried to draw a picture & it didn't quite come out right--sorry!

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

              What pattern are you working from?

              They should have instructions on how the shirt is to be constructed.
              Ryan B.Weddle

              7th New York State Militia

              "Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes" - Henry David Thoreau

              "The willingness with which our young people are likely to serve in any war, no matter how justified, shall be directly proportional as to how they perceive the Veterans of earlier wars were treated and appreciated by their country."
              George Washington , 1789

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

                its a pattern from one of my pards that was made from an original federal issued shirt awhile back. the directions are very vague and therefore i am using the pattern and original shirts i have seen to construct the shirt. i believe i have a better idea of how to put the gussets in now. thankyou all for your responses.
                Ryan Stull
                37th NC Co B
                stull6@charter.net

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

                  Originally posted by privstull
                  its a pattern from one of my pards that was made from an original federal issued shirt awhile back. the directions are very vague and therefore i am using the pattern and original shirts i have seen to construct the shirt. i believe i have a better idea of how to put the gussets in now. thankyou all for your responses.
                  Sounds like a very cool and interesting project!

                  I prefer County Cloth's pattern of the M1851 Saroni Contract shirt.

                  Good luck.
                  Ryan B.Weddle

                  7th New York State Militia

                  "Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes" - Henry David Thoreau

                  "The willingness with which our young people are likely to serve in any war, no matter how justified, shall be directly proportional as to how they perceive the Veterans of earlier wars were treated and appreciated by their country."
                  George Washington , 1789

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

                    Ryan (not Weddle)-- You're in High Point, right? I'm in Winston-Salem. I can show you how to do it.

                    Neal
                    [SIZE=1]Neal W. Sexton[/SIZE]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Federal issued shirt sleeve gussets

                      Neal, thankyou for your offer. As of this Friday I will be moving to TN and therefore am in the process of moving right now. I regret that I had not started on this shirt earlier because you would have been of great help. Thanks again for your offer.
                      Ryan Stull
                      37th NC Co B
                      stull6@charter.net

                      Comment

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