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  • Fall Dye Run Now Available

    Our fall dye run is complete, and skeins are available for sale. First, a bit about the process and ordering terms. Subsequent posts will picture the various colors available, along with yarn sizes.

    These are 100% wool yarns spun on a commercial grade spinner, dyed with a variety of natural dyes and mordants available during the 18th and 19th centuries.

    Each year, during the first week of November, Sister and I (along with a whole bunch of helpers) wash wool, card, spin, weave and dye in a historical setting at Fort Toulouse-Jackson State historic site, near Wetumpka, Alabama. This unique site holds the archeological remains of an 18th century French fort, an 1812 War fort, Indian mounds, Indian, French and English homesteads, and a large variety of native wildlife. In addition to living and working in the reconstructed structures, we talk with approximately 15,000 school children and adults during the week-long event.

    For me, the historical setting is as important as the process of dyeing—the daily routine of rising with the sun to build fires, haul water, set the complicated chemistry of natural dyes into motion, and having a quiet moment watching the mists from the river before the school buses roll in. About the time I’ve gotten my first cup of coffee from the quick heat of the blacksmith’s forge, some unfortunate soul from the French Marine barracks arrives with buckets of urine collected in the night, to aid in the process of washing greasy wool. Others come up with dinner on the hoof to trade for the process of dyeing garments, and we look with anticipation for Indians to bring baskets of dyestuffs so we can attempt to extract some color from a plant new to us.

    Wool yarn is wound into skeins of approximately 1 pound of dry weight. Those skeins are ‘scoured’ through at least two changes of hot water to remove any remaining spinning oils or lanolin. Each skein then goes through a mordant process---simmering for several hours with various metal salts that are required to bind the dyes to the wool. In a majority of my dyes, I use an alum mordant—it’s the least toxic of the good mordants available. Also used are salts of tin, copper, iron, tartaric acid, lye, lime and a variety of other common chemicals. Each has its own purpose in affecting color depth, intensity, lightfastness and range---from the same pot of cochineal red dye, I can obtain colors ranging from orange to pink to red to purple, depending on the mordant used on the skeins.

    After mordanting, skeins are rinsed again in hot water, and placed in soaking barrels. Dyepots are prepared by simmering the dye stuffs, often in cheesecloth bags, until the color has been extracted. The dyestuffs are removed, and the wet mordanted skeins are transferred to the dyepots for additional simmering which may last from 30 minutes to 12 hours.

    Some skeins may then be transferred to a second dyepot in order to make a color combination, or placed in an afterbath such as lime to change a color. After the dye process is complete, the skeins are dried in open air, and then go through a series of hot water rinses to remove excess dye.

    Dye lots vary depending on the wool breed utilized, ply and twist, strength of dyestuff, mordant and water content. Each skein is unique and may contain variations in color depth throughout the skein---the color cannot be reliably matched in subsequent dye runs. As you plan a project, make sure you are purchasing enough yarn to complete it.

    Natural dyes have been used for thousands of years and produce a wonderful range of shades and variations of color. With each step in the process, yarns are rinsed to remove excess dye but not all can be removed. As you work with these yarns, some color may rub off on your hands. This is called ‘crocking’ and is a common property of these dyes. The crocked color will wash off your hands with soap and water. Natural dyes change color over time and excessive light exposure can hasten that change.

    Dyer’s skeins of approximately 1 pound in weight are $75. Shipping by US Priority Mail is included in this price, with a minimum order of 1 pound. Yardage in the various skeins will vary, depending on the weight of the yarn, which is detailed along with the color information. These skeins come to you as pictured, with 4-6 cotton skein ties on each one. It is advised that you possess a squirrel cage swift or umbrella swift capable of handling a 2 yard circumference skein, or have a partner with the patience and time to hold the skein properly while you wind a ball.

    Skeins may also be purchased in 100 yard skeins for $8 per skein. Shipping is included at this price, and there is a minimum order of 6 skeins for mail order sales.

    Fingering and lace weight skeins are priced as indicated with those images. Only the whole skein may be purchased in those yarn types, and skein weights vary from 4 to 6 ounces.

    All payments are through Paypal. You have a 3 day return option for a full refund, less shipping and handling costs. The skein ties must be unbroken in order to return the yarn.

    To order yarn, you will first need to reserve the amount you need by sending an email to me at thlawson@bellsouth.net Copy the full description as listed below to include Skein #, color description, and yarn size. State the amount you desire to purchase, either as a full 1 pound dyer’s skein, or in 100 yard increments.

    Please do not use the A/C private message system, as these yarns are offered through a variety of venues, and the first time stamp will prevail. You will then receive a confirmation and instruction for Paypal remittance. Once an order is confirmed to you, it will be held for 3 days pending the receipt of payment notification from Paypal . If payment is not received within that time period, the items will be released for other sales.

    I hope you enjoy using these naturally dyed yarns as much as I enjoy producing them. This is but a small part of the much larger process of our efforts to accurately depict life and material culture in the mid 19th century.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Eric Tipton; 11-29-2007, 11:04 AM. Reason: Changed Photo to Thumbnail - Throwing off front page formatting.
    Terre Hood Biederman
    Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

    sigpic
    Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

    ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

  • #2
    Re: Fall Dye Run Now Available

    Image 1:
    Cochineal is a small hard shelled bug that grows in Central and South America. Red dyes are rare in nature, and the Spanish valued this dye as highly as they did gold—it was part of Montezuma’s ransom. Later, this dye is used to dye the Redcoats of British officers in the colonial period. During the CW period it was used for both clothing and cosmetic coloring. Today we know it as a food coloring and in lipsticks.




    From left to right:
    Skein 1: Variegated red. This is a custom dye lot that is already sold. More on this process later SOLD

    Skein 2: Rose: Cochineal, alum and tartaric SOLD
    2-ply (2/65); approx. 1040 yards per pound and 14 wraps/inch;

    Skein 3: Light Pink: Cochineal, alum and tartaric
    2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 yards per pound and 18 wraps/inch
    Last edited by Spinster; 11-29-2007, 10:05 AM. Reason: noting sold items
    Terre Hood Biederman
    Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

    sigpic
    Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

    ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Fall Dye Run Now Available

      Image 2:
      Bois d’ Arc is obtained from the heartwood of an insect/rot resistant tree. During the French settlement period of Alabama, this wood was in use by Natives for constructing bows, and we use the resulting shavings for dye. Today the French phrase has been corrupted to ‘bodock’ in common usage and this bushy tree is used for live hedging as well as for fence posts

      Old Fustic, or yellowwood, or dyer’s mulberry is American heartwood producing a yellow dye



      Skeins are numbered left to right, top row first:

      Skein 1: Bright yellow—Bois d’Arc, Alum, Tin
      2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch

      Skein 2: Bright yellow—Bois d’Arc, Alum, Tin
      2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch

      Skeins 1 and 2 were done at the same time and are a matched dyelot, with 2 pounds available for larger projects

      Skein 3: Medium yellow-- Bois d’Arc, Alum SOLD
      2-ply (2/65); approx. 1040 ypp and 14 wraps/inch;

      Skein 4: Light yellow- Bois d’Arc, Alum
      2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch

      Skein 5: Sage Green—Old Fustic, Logwood, Alum
      2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch

      Skein 6: Light yellow/beige—Old Fustic, Alum
      2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch

      Skeins 5 and 6 are complementary processes. First, two matched skeins were dyed with Old Fustic. Then a second dye bath was prepared of a weak Logwood to produce a green overdye on one of the skeins. While most natural dye yarns look good together, those colors produced in this two step process are especially attractive together.
      Last edited by Spinster; 11-29-2007, 09:49 AM. Reason: noting sold items
      Terre Hood Biederman
      Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

      sigpic
      Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

      ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Fall Dye Run Now Available

        Image 3:

        Logwood dye is made from the heartwood of a South American tree. During the CW period it was commonly used as a good black dye, and continued to be used to dye women’s black stockings until recent decades. Depending on the mordant used, shades of purple can be obtained, and which is what I’ve done in this series




        Skein 1: Dark purple/black with brown streaks---Logwood, Alum, Iron SOLD
        2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch

        Skein 2: Dark purple---Logwood, Alum
        2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch

        Skein 3: Medium purple---Logwood, Alum SOLD
        2-ply (2/65); approx. 1040 ypp and 14 wraps/inch;

        Skein 4: Light purple---Logwood, Alum
        2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch
        Last edited by Spinster; 11-29-2007, 09:50 AM. Reason: noting sold items
        Terre Hood Biederman
        Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

        sigpic
        Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

        ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Fall Dye Run Now Available

          Image 4:
          Cutch or catechu is a brown tannin rich dye obtained from the heartwood an Asian tree. Tannin functions as a mordant, and no additional processing is required. I use alum both to brighten the shade and aid in maintaining lightfast properties.



          Skein 1: Bright Mustard Brown—Cutch, Alum
          2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch

          Skein 2: Bright Mustard Brown—Cutch, Alum
          2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch

          Skeins 1 and 2 are a matched dyelot, with 2 pounds available for a large project.

          Skein 3: Redish/ Brown—Cutch, Pomegranate, Alum
          2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch
          Terre Hood Biederman
          Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

          sigpic
          Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

          ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Fall Dye Run Now Available

            Image 5:
            Indigo is unique among the natural dyes for its stronger ability to resist light fading, and its unique dye process involving much lower temperatures and a complicated mixture of lye, water, urine, and the matter which settles out when the bushy plant is rotted. Among South Carolina’s first cash crops, Indigo was King long before Cotton was King.

            The unusual dye process produces a popular show, as the yarn emerges from the dyebath still white, and goes through a color change of yellow to green to increasing shades of blue as oxygen binds with the indigo in the yarn. Unless a contractor was busy adulterating his dyes with less expensive logwood, Indigo was the dye used in Federal uniforms.



            Skeins are numbered left to right, top row first

            Skein 1: Medium Variegated Blue—Indigo, Chamberley SOLD
            2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch

            Skein 2: Medium Variegated Blue—Indigo, Chamberley SOLD
            2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch

            Skein 3: Medium Variegated Blue—Indigo, Chamberley SOLD
            2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch

            Skeins 1, 2, 3 are a matched dyelot with 3 pounds available for a large project

            Skein 4: Medium Variegated Blue—Indigo, Chamberley
            2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch

            Skein 5: Lighter Variegated Blue—Indigo, Chamberley SOLD
            2-ply (2/65); approx. 1040 ypp and 14 wraps/inch;

            Skein 6: Lightest Variegated Blue--- Indigo, Chamberley
            2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch
            Last edited by Spinster; 11-29-2007, 09:51 AM. Reason: noting sold items
            Terre Hood Biederman
            Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

            sigpic
            Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

            ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Fall Dye Run Now Available

              Image 6:
              Black Walnut and Sumac were both commonly used in the South as a wartime substitute dye. The hull of the Black Walnut is used, but color can also be obtained from the leaves. The best color is obtained by fermenting the hull for about a year---and the resulting dyestuff smells a good bit like a running sewer.

              The bark of the Sumac tree is used, and the leaves are somewhat productive on unspun wool. Compared to the brighter colors available pre-war, they were sad, sorry dyes with poor washing and lightfast properties. Still, a little color is better than none.



              Skein 1: Brown—Black Walnut, Iron SOLD
              2-ply (2/65); approx. 1040 ypp and 14 wraps/inch;

              Skein 2: Brown—Black Walnut, Iron SOLD
              2-ply (2/65); approx. 1040 ypp and 14 wraps/inch;

              Skein 1 and 2 are matched dyelots, with 2 pounds available for a larger project

              Skein 3—Sumac, Iron
              2-ply (2/80); approx. 1280 ypp and 18 wraps/inch
              Last edited by Spinster; 11-29-2007, 09:52 AM. Reason: noting sold items
              Terre Hood Biederman
              Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

              sigpic
              Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

              ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Fall Dye Run Now Available

                This image is of fingering and lace weight yarns in a variety of colors. The dye processes for each are described above.

                Each skein weighs 4 ounces and the cost per skein is $25, with a minium order of $48. Shipping is included.


                Top Row
                Skein 1: Indigo Blue SOLD
                2-ply (2/12) worsted spun; approx. 3360 ypp and 28 wraps/inch
                Approximately 840 yards in this 4 ounce skein

                Skein 2: Logwood Purple
                2-ply (2/12) worsted spun; approx. 3360 ypp and 28 wraps/inch
                Approximately 840 yards in this 4 ounce skein

                Skein 3: Cochineal Pink
                2-ply (2/12) worsted spun; approx. 3360 ypp and 28 wraps/inch
                Approximately 840 yards in this 4 ounce skein

                Skein 4: Bois d'Arc Yellow
                2-ply (2/12) worsted spun; approx. 3360 ypp and 28 wraps/inch
                Approximately 840 yards in this 4 ounce skein

                Skein 5: Pale Green: Bois d'Arc Yellow and Indigo
                2-ply (2/12) worsted spun; approx. 3360 ypp and 28 wraps/inch
                Approximately 840 yards in this 4 ounce skein

                Skein 6: Indigo Blue (lighter shade) SOLD
                2-ply (2/12) worsted spun; approx. 3360 ypp and 28 wraps/inch
                Approximately 840 yards in this 4 ounce skein

                Bottom Row

                Skein 7: Cochineal Pink
                2-ply (2/20) worsted spun; approx. 5600 ypp and 36 wraps/inch
                Approximately 1400 yards in this 4 ounce skein

                Skein 8: Sumac and Walnut brown
                2-ply (2/20) worsted spun; approx. 5600 ypp and 36 wraps/inch
                Approximately 1400 yards in this 4 ounce skein

                Skein 9: Old Fustic (deep gold)
                2-ply (2/20) worsted spun; approx. 5600 ypp and 36 wraps/inch
                Approximately 1400 yards in this 4 ounce skein

                Skein 10: Deep Sage Green (Old Fustic and Logwood)
                2-ply (2/20) worsted spun; approx. 5600 ypp and 36 wraps/inch
                Approximately 1400 yards in this 4 ounce skein
                Last edited by Spinster; 11-29-2007, 02:10 AM.
                Terre Hood Biederman
                Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

                sigpic
                Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

                ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Fall Dye Run Now Available

                  There now. That's as much of the Fall Dye Run that will be ready anytime soon. I've got knitting to do...........

                  Sometimes it will take me a day or so to get back to you with an order confirmation, as I'm often at my Dad's home these days, and have to go into town to get a connection.

                  And the lovely structure you see in the background of many of these photos is the Lassiter house, a mid 1850's frame Italianate style home . My own studio is located on what once was the brick and clay tennis courts adjacent to this wonderful structure. The home was moved to its current site in the 1920's, and has recently been restored and reoccupied after extensive damage from Hurricane Katrina.



                  The folks that live there will tell you it is most definitely NOT for sale. :D
                  Terre Hood Biederman
                  Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

                  sigpic
                  Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

                  ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Fall Dye Run Now Available

                    Mrs. Lawson,

                    Thank you for the extensive posts! Besides making the pitch for your goods for sale, you have put an excellent resource in period dyeing (at least the "for dummies" version) up for us. I've learned a lot by just reading you posts and looking at the colors.

                    Thank you!

                    Best,

                    Will
                    Will Eichler

                    Member, Company of Military Historians
                    Saginaw City Light Infantry
                    Hubbard Winsor Lodge #420
                    Stony Creek Lodge #5

                    Civil War Digital Digest
                    http://civilwardigitaldigest.com/

                    Historic Fort Wayne Coalition
                    www.historicfortwaynecoalition.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Fall Dye Run Now Available

                      Terre,

                      I just wanted to say excellent work! I am hopeful that once your sales are over that you will incorporate these pictures and text into an article. The information about the origins of dyes and accompanying pictures are truly priceless! Thank you for your efforts!


                      Best,
                      Dan Wambaugh
                      Wambaugh, White, & Company
                      www.wwandcompany.com
                      517-303-3609
                      Become our fan on Facebook by clicking HERE

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Fall Dye Run Now Available

                        Beautiful. Simply beautiful.
                        Lawrence Underwood, Jr.
                        Mobile, AL

                        21st Alabama Infantry Reg. Co. D
                        Mobile Battle Guards

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Fall Dye Run Now Available

                          Agreed. I have no knitting skills, but I found this to be a fascinating read.

                          Thank you for sharing the processes. :)
                          Ron Mueller
                          Illinois
                          New Madrid Guards

                          "How many legs does a dog have if you call the tail a leg?
                          Four. Calling a tail a leg doesn't make it a leg."
                          Abraham Lincoln

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Fall Dye Run Now Available

                            Thank you Gentlemen.

                            Liz Clark was kind enough to volunteer to gather my scattered postings and musings on various subjects a while back--I know a good bit about a very narrow subject area, but as my running buddy Sister (5 grad degrees) points out, I need a good editor.

                            And Brother Lawrence, when I said I'd have yarn in the basket for your knitting efforts when I get down to Fort Gaines--well, you can see why I told you to get some new knitting needles.:D
                            Terre Hood Biederman
                            Yassir, I used to be Mrs. Lawson. I still run period dyepots, knit stuff, and cause trouble.

                            sigpic
                            Wearing Grossly Out of Fashion Clothing Since 1958.

                            ADVENTURE CALLS. Can you hear it? Come ON.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Fall Dye Run Now Available

                              I'm shopping! But, man I've got to tell you purling with these tiny needles is interesting. :)
                              Lawrence Underwood, Jr.
                              Mobile, AL

                              21st Alabama Infantry Reg. Co. D
                              Mobile Battle Guards

                              Comment

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