Researcher asking for help

[Lynn]

Dear All;

I am a researcher in the area of the sizing and fit of clothing. I am doing research on the history of mass production of men's clothing and men's ready-to-wear. My question has been difficult for me but I seem to have found myself among experts on this forum, and after reading a good portion of this site I put my question out to you in the hopes of some replies.

I know that for the majority of the Civil War there were four sizes for the Sack coat. In a post on July 6, 2007 I read that some sack coats came in sizes 5-8 towards the end of the war and gave the resource as the COlumbia Rifles Research Compendium 2nd Edition. I cannot find this book at any library nor among the few people I know who may also be interested in this topic. Therefore, my questions are:

1) What measurements do sizes 5 - 8 correlate to? (Chest measurement, etc)
2) Does anyone know an approximate date to the start of the expanded sizes?

I would be happy if someone responds to this post or emails me directly at booradyL@missouri.edu.

Best regards,
Lynn Boorady
University of Missouri
Department of Textile and Apparel Management

[coastaltrash]

Re: Researcher asking for help

Lynn,
It goes along with the other sizes, advancing in 2 inch increments.

[Michael Comer]

Re: Researcher asking for help

The following is quoted from the source you cited above:

"According to data compiled by Earl J. Coates and Fred Caede, however, New York contractor John T. Martin had small late-war contracts for larger blouses in sizes 5,6 and 7. The total number of these sizes called for in the contracts amounted to a total of only around one thousand blouses, so they could not have made much of an impact on the soldiers, most of whom were forced to make do with the four standard sizes."

There is no date given in this source for when "late-war" may have been but it does reference as a footnote; George Crossman, Extracts from the Quartermaster's Manual Relating to Clothing & Equipage (Washington D.C.; US Government Printing Office 1865).

[Brian Baird]

Re: Researcher asking for help

The original info on the larger sizes was published in Paul McKee's article "Notes on the Federal Issue Sack Coat" MILITARY COLLECTOR & HISTORIAN Journal of the Company of Military Historians. Vol. XLVII, No 2 Summer 1995.

You can check , they may have this issue available.

Brian Baird

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Researcher asking for help

Hallo!

IMHO...

I don't think you should be looking so much for a "start date" for the larger size ranges beyond the "standard" 1-4.

Schuylkill Arsenal also ran a "Special Clothing Bureau" where special requisitions could be made for the "odd ball" size need. However, time and circumstances, as well as delivery to the field were a different matter.

Curt

[Lynn]

Re: Researcher asking for help

Thanks to all who are posting - your answers are extremely helpful!

[Lynn]

Re: Researcher asking for help

Curt-
I was looking for a start time only to see if I could link the changes in clothing sizes to when George Crosman was given leave to work on the sizing issues - I had a congressional reference to this but couldn't back it up. Michael did so in his reply.

Brian-
They do have that issue available and I have requested it.

Michael-
Exactly what I was looking for!

Patrick -
Makes sense, thanks for confirming it.

The wealth of knowledge all of you have is amazing!

[Michael Comer]

Re: Researcher asking for help

Always glad to help a fellow Missourian!:)