Top Stitching

[GaReb52nd]

I have searched the entire site for top stitching but didn't find an answer to my question. What is the proper way top stitch a garment with machine stitching already in place. I want to go over my button holes and the stitching on my collar and the front of my coat. My question is; once I go over it with hand sewn thread, do I take out the machine sewn stitching or leave it in? Thanks in advance.

[markmason]

Re: Top Stitching

I would remove the machined stitching prior to your top-stitch. As for your button hole concerns. First, if they are machined buttonholes, simplify the process by removing the stitches first. If its merely a lock stitch outlining the buttonhole, leave it in( see step 1) When you work a buttonhole in by hand try these steps.

Hand-worked buttonhole:

1. work a running stitch the length of your buttonhole in a rectangle fashion outlining the hole itself. you will want this to be a very narrow rectangle, 1/16 -1/8 in width example: ======

2. slit the cloth very carefully between these running stitches thus made.

3. work a binding stitch (whip stitch) around the edges of the button hole you just cut, this will keep your buttonhole from fraying on you, additionally holding your outer cloth and facing together.

4. using buttonhole twist preferably silk, work your buttonhole stitch ( refer to sewing techniques/instructions elsewhere on the web) keeping the spacing between stitches close together and strive to make them equally spaces and neat as possible.

Keeping in mind if your buttonhole already exist, and you want to replace the stitching, use a new razor blade or seam ripper ( I prefer the razor) be very careful and remove all stitching, follow immediately with a binding stitch (basic whip stitch or blanket stitch) around the raw edges of your hole.

Do one hole at a time.


I hope I did not confuse you further, and I hope this will help.

[Clark Badgett]

Re: Top Stitching

I misread the above post, please disregard if you read my posting.

[hireddutchcutthroat]

Re: Top Stitching

If you are planning on resewing a sutler row uniform by hand, you may want to reconsider. Most sutler row uniforms have allot more troubles than just machine sewing. They use cut and construction ment more for speed and cheepness of construction rather than authenticity. You may just want to save up and buy a new uniform from an approved vendor.

[GaReb52nd]

Re: Top Stitching

Robert,
Actually the jacket was made for me by a lady and isn't of sutler row quality. She hand stitched the cuffs, but machined the rest. So would I be safe in removing part of the stitching at a time and immediately replacing it with my own hand stitches? And yes my button holes already exist.

[Yellowhammer]

Re: Top Stitching

What pattern is the jacket? There are plenty of examples of machine-sewn CS garments so the machine-sewing may be acceptable provided the materials and pattern are correct.

However, I tend to agree with Robert on this one. Not to reopen a contentious debate, but "defarbing" a garment is difficult if not impossible. Even if you can replace the stitching, are the materials and pattern used correct? Generally, if a garment is incorrectly assembled, the pattern is probably incorrect as well.

That said, if you jacket is made of correct materials using a good pattern, I'd pull the stitching, press the crap out of it, and re-topstitch using a backstitch.

[Yellowhammer]

Re: Top Stitching

Mark,

Regarding your post on buttonholes, here's a tip for you.

Instead of cutting the buttonholes with a razor blade or scissors (you used the word "slit") try punching the hole with a chisel.

Mark your buttonhole with tailor's chalk or pins, lay the garment on a wooden board or block making sure only the layer to be punched is over the wood and then punch the hole with a chisel of a size which corresponds to your button.

If you line the blade of the chisel up with the grain of the fabric and keep it vertical, you punch an exceptionally clean hole and get a much neater result. Using this method, I've never had to hand overcast a buttonhole before applying my buttonhole stitch.

Last, punch your buttonholes one at a time and sew them immediately afterwards. This prevents fraying of the other buttonholes as you shift the garment around in the working on the buttonhole.

Hope that helps.

[GaReb52nd]

Re: Top Stitching

What pattern is the jacket? There are plenty of examples of machine-sewn CS garments so the machine-sewing may be acceptable provided the materials and pattern are correct.

It is a Columbus Depot Type I. As far as I know I think she got the fabric from FHW.


That said, if you jacket is made of correct materials using a good pattern, I'd pull the stitching, press the crap out of it, and re-topstitch using a backstitch.

Not to sound ignorant, but how do you make a backstitch? I have looked over several websites but I can't find one for some reason.

[Holy Joe]

Re: Top Stitching

Try this;

http://www.nwta.com/couriers/5-97/sewing.html

[RyanBWeddle]

Re: Top Stitching

Not trying to be flip here, but I think you should reconsider your end goal...

Why don't you consider having someone else who is experienced try and re-fit your jacket, OR get a new more authentic jacket ( and sell this one )...

Since you are inexperienced at sewing, "how do you make a backstitch?"...,
Why not take the next step beyond a 'quick fix' and getting something better, made correctly from good quaility patterns and materials, by a known entity that can construct a garment properly... you will only have to 'buy up' later on when you want a more authentic garment...save yourself time now & in the future...

Too many times people who are new to the 'authentic' side of things jump in and try to do everything themselves (when they don't have the knowledge base/talent) and end up taking a step back rather than a leap forward...

[Clark Badgett]

Re: Top Stitching

Jason, this could be the prime oportunity to learn a lot about period construction. Since you have it, and it is posibly of a good patern and material, go for it. Hand sewing is not hard, just can be time consuming.

[Jonah Barleycorn]

Re: Top Stitching

Not to sound ignorant, but how do you make a backstitch? I have looked over several websites but I can't find one for some reason.

Sir,

Perhaps you may find this helpful. I recommend that you look up the classicstitches.com website. They have a nice little "stitch glossary" with short directions as well as illustrative diagrams as well.

http://www.classicstitches.com/know_how/index.cfm?cat=Stitch%20Glossary&let=A

Bully,

[GaReb52nd]

Re: Top Stitching

Not trying to be flip here, but I think you should reconsider your end goal...

Why don't you consider having someone else who is experienced try and re-fit your jacket, OR get a new more authentic jacket ( and sell this one )...

Since you are inexperienced at sewing, "how do you make a backstitch?"...,
Why not take the next step beyond a 'quick fix' and getting something better, made correctly from good quaility patterns and materials, by a known entity that can construct a garment properly... you will only have to 'buy up' later on when you want a more authentic garment...save yourself time now & in the future...

Too many times people who are new to the 'authentic' side of things jump in and try to do everything themselves (when they don't have the knowledge base/talent) and end up taking a step back rather than a leap forward...

Well I look at it like this...not EVERY soldier knew how to properly sew and they had to make do with the limited sewing skills they had. I had rather do it myself rather than always have someone else do it. I think I would take more pride in it if I knew it was done by myself. One can always learn how to do something even if they are not skilled at it. Practicing on a scrap piece before attempting it on the actual material will save headaches and will hone your skills. Just my opinion.

[RyanBWeddle]

Re: Top Stitching

Well I look at it like this...not EVERY soldier knew how to properly sew and they had to make do with the limited sewing skills they had.

Well, soldiers did not sew their own uniforms (except for field repairs/alterations). What you are undertaking isn't a typical project for a soldier in the field.

Read:

http://www.military-historians.org/company/journal/confederate/confederate-1.htm

from Jensen:
"Other manufactories were eventually established in Nash*ville, Tennessee; Athens, Atlanta and Columbus, Georgia; Montgomery, Tuscaloosa and Marion, Alabama; Jackson and Enterprise, Mississippi; Shreveport, Louisiana and else*where. Not all of the manufactories operated throughout the war, and by the latter half of the conflict the major centers were in Richmond, Athens, Atlanta and Columbus. 30

These Clothing Bureaus operated in much the same way as the U.S. Army's Schuylkill Arsenal. A limited number of tailors in each manufactory cut out the pieces of each uniform. The pieces were bundled, and with the necessary trim, buttons and thread, were issued to seamstresses who sewed them together and were paid by the completed piece. "

I had rather do it myself rather than always have someone else do it. I think I would take more pride in it if I knew it was done by myself.

That's fine & dandy... I myself make many of my own uniforms. Bully for you.

One can always learn how to do something even if they are not skilled at it. Practicing on a scrap piece before attempting it on the actual material will save headaches and will hone your skills. Just my opinion.

Practicing on a scrap is one thing, making dozens of pieces weeks at a time is another (as in the case of these sewing circles referred to above), and a much better way to hone ;)

[hireddutchcutthroat]

Re: Top Stitching

Well I look at it like this...not EVERY soldier knew how to properly sew and they had to make do with the limited sewing skills they had. I had rather do it myself rather than always have someone else do it. I think I would take more pride in it if I knew it was done by myself. One can always learn how to do something even if they are not skilled at it. Practicing on a scrap piece before attempting it on the actual material will save headaches and will hone your skills. Just my opinion.

Jason

If you really want to start sewing and making some of your own stuff. I highly recomend making a Federal issue shirt. I found it to be a great learning tool as it is all squares and rectangles, and it has several variations of easy stitches. Then you will be ready to move onto French Hussars uniforms :tounge_sm