Officer Jacket Fabric

[Boy of '61]

I was woundering if a Union Jr. Officer Frockcoat can be made out of a 19oz wool or dose it have to be made out of broadcloth.

Thank You,

Andy Miller

[RebelReefer]

Re: Officer Jacket Fabric

From what research i have done, they tended to be made of material lighter than 19oz wool. I would go with broadcloth...thats what i had mine made from. But officer's had their own uniforms made, so do what you think you'll like, you'll be no different than an officer of that time period.

[markmason]

Re: Officer Jacket Fabric

Just for reference, broadcloth is a common 19th C. term used when refering to wool yard goods. Cloth that was very typical to construction of officers uniforms is usually in a 7-10oz weight, VERY fine weave resembling a fine velvet like texture. You will not find cloth matching 100%. Generally, what you do find is cheaper cloth with less thread count, napped and pressed in attempt to replicate finer broadcloth. Napping is a process of taking the weaved cloth and running it under a series of fine combs. These combs pick the fibers up and interlock them together.

You may try some English Broadcloth but, expect to pay $60 and up.

Once this is accomplished, you will need a tailor to turn the cloth into a nice Frock Coat, lined and quilted.

I hope this helps??

[markj]

Re: Officer Jacket Fabric

Indeed, both Mark Mason and I recently examined two identified officer coats at a local historical society here in Indiana (one belonged to a staff officer named "Capt. Rose" and the other was worn by Colonel W. C. L. Taylor, 20th Indiana). The fabric used in both was much finer and lighter than the horse-blanket stuff you see being worn by many folks. The quilted linings in both items would have been pretty standard during the 1860's but were nigh well awesome compared to what's being done today even by such fine suppliers as Pat Brown, Nick ************, and C. J. Daley.

Regards,

Mark Jaeger

[JerseySkilletLicker]

Re: Officer Jacket Fabric

"The quilted linings in both items would have been pretty standard during the 1860's but were nigh well awesome compared to what's being done today even by such fine suppliers as Pat Brown, Nick ************, and C. J. Daley."

Dear Mark,
Speaking for my vendors I can say that the ultra high level of craftmanship sported in the coats you observed is well within the range of the talents of my vendors. However, the bottom line is that I would probably never sell a single coat as the price would be far above what is "acceptable" in the eyes of most reenactors.
That being said I hope you get the chance to examine one of ************'s Jr. Officer Dress Coats or his private purchase sack coat, I believe your opinion might change just a bit.
Best,
Joe

[LibertyHallVols]

Re: Officer Jacket Fabric

Joe,

(Mark: Please correct me if I mis-state your point here)

I jumped over to your website and checked out the pics of the officer's frock. The pic of the interior pocket gives a bit of an idea how the quilting is done (looks like parallel lines). CLEARLY, the details featured on the coat you offer are expertly rendered.

...However, what I THINK Mark is referring to is the tight, detailed "fancy" stitch patterns commonly seen on high-end quality original garments (such as officers' frocks). I have seen concentric trapezoidal pattern stitching, patterns that appear similar to the "log cabin" pattern of quilts, and other amazing looking stuff! Thus far, I've not seen reproductions with these features. Not that current vendors are not capable of such things (as you rightly pointed out), but because the cost would be prohibitive (as you also rightly pointed out).

Cheers,

[markj]

Re: Officer Jacket Fabric

"The quilted linings in both items would have been pretty standard during the 1860's but were nigh well awesome compared to what's being done today even by such fine suppliers as Pat Brown, Nick ************, and C. J. Daley."

Dear Mark,
Speaking for my vendors I can say that the ultra high level of craftmanship sported in the coats you observed is well within the range of the talents of my vendors. However, the bottom line is that I would probably never sell a single coat as the price would be far above what is "acceptable" in the eyes of most reenactors.
That being said I hope you get the chance to examine one of ************'s Jr. Officer Dress Coats or his private purchase sack coat, I believe your opinion might change just a bit.
Best,
Joe

Hi Joe,

Perhaps we've had a misunderstanding. If you read my comments carefully you'll note I cast no aspersions on anyone's talents or wares. What I do infer is that, as John Wickett noted (and who has also seen the coats I mentioned), the skill displayed in the quilting (especially that of the Taylor coat) is of exceptionally high order, so much so that it would be difficult to reproduce for a price acceptable to most living historians.

Colonel W. C. L. Taylor clearly obtained his coat and trousers (which have apparently not survived) through a high-end tailoring establishment, possibly in New York during the summer of 1863 when he and the 20th IVI were stationed there after the Draft Riots. Taylor's duds certainly didn't come cheap: he almost certainly paid the 1860's equivalent of what one would pay now for a high-end, tailored business suit. Taylor's riding boots have, in fact, survived and they were clearly made by a master craftsman and were, thus, quite expensive (incidentally, Taylor couldn't have been more than 5 6", weighed maybe 140 lbs. soaking wet, and wore about a size 7 shoe!).

The "Army and Navy Journal" occasionally carried letters from officers bitching about the high cost of uniforms--you've probably seen similar items elsewhere. Indeed, one officer's letter noted that a standard company-grade officer's coat reportedly cost around $40 by 1864, thanks to wartime inflation. In today's money (depending on whose conversion tables you use) that would be something like $600-800.

If anything, it appears that modern reenactors purchasing your fine wares are getting bargains compared to their 1860's counterparts.

Regards,

Mark Jaeger