1858 Forage Caps

[Ian M.]

Sorry if an answer or article has been posted before but I could not locate it.

Trying to determine the type of fabric, its weight, and color for standard issue and contracted Federal forage caps. Together with this would be any reasonably common variations or ranges of difference in fabric, weight and color.

For example, was the generally-used fabric dark blue wool kersey -- e.g., like the issue frock? Was flannel of a lighter color blue reasonbly common (or ever used) -- e.g., similar to material and color for a Schulkyl Arsenal sackcoat?

Any recommended sutlers for a spot-on, dead to rights forage cap?

Cheers.

Ian Macoy

[Bummer]

Re: 1858 Forage Caps

Having owned an even dozen original issue 'bummer' forage caps from various makers, and still retaining some of them, I can mention one thing--they all seem to have a plain weave rather than a twill weave as seen on some kepis (and all other Union uniforms parts). A fairly thin tightly woven plain weave with a 'brush finish' and a rather high thread count of about 48 per inch (just counted as I write this). And much finer cloth than any of the other enlisted man's uniform items.
The color varies among them as does the color of most other federal uniform parts...the best I can say is, Union Blue.
Most reproduction forage caps on the market lately seem to all have a slightly thicker twill weave although I did recently purchase a Starbuck made one with the plain weave.

[nick19thind]

Re: 1858 Forage Caps

12 oz. dark blue wool, similar to the material used on the frock coat with 2 brass eagle buttons, a leather peak and chinstrap.

[hiplainsyank]

Re: 1858 Forage Caps

I thought that they were made of broadcloth; Hainsworth broadcloth of England being the most accurate cloth available today. Several authentic makers use this.

[Jim Moffet]

Re: 1858 Forage Caps

The Hainsworth Broadcloth is great in finish, but is heavier than any original cap's wool that I have ever seen. It a proper cane is used in the welting, the Hainsworth wool is apt to create an oversized welt.

Jim Moffet
Co. A, Minnesota First

[PanzerJager]

Re: 1858 Forage Caps

I am going to agree with Jim, the Hainsworth cloth is very nice cloth but it is way to thick compared with the original forage caps I have handled.

I have one of the caps mentioned above by Spence Waldron that Greg Starbuck made and the fabric he used on these caps is the closet I have seen to the originals I have handled. When we purchased these caps we had two original issue forage caps available for comparison as well as several other examples of reproductions from other quality makers, including ones made of the Hainsworth cloth.

Regards,

[Bob 125th NYSVI]

Nj

A good example is the mint condition/unissued LJ&I Phillips type I that I have, which came from the Stamatellos Brothers collection. It is darker in and slightly purplish in color color and thicker

I find the color remark interesting because indigo die will apparently fade to a number of different shades depending on environmental factors during its preparation but I was always led to beleive that 'purple' was not among the possible variations.

So I guess I'm asking is it possible for indigo to fade to a purple or is it possible the contractor didn't use an indigo (or pure indigo) die?

By the way I just acquired one of your type Is. Nice really really nice.

[rogue]

Re: 1858 Forage Caps

Back in the Dark Ages (1960-1970's) a fellow in Wisconsin, Don Rademacher, used to make wonderous forage caps. He used cloth that was 100 % wool and made to cover billiard (pool) tables.
I understand that this cloth is still available, good color, but now is synthetic, no longer 100 % wool.
Perhaps there are still some sources for this?
Steve Sullivan

[CJSchumacher]

Re: 1858 Forage Caps

The mill was in the process of being sold to a larger firm from Italy, Laura Piani, which specializes in gabardine suitings.

Merely wanted to clarify that it might be Loro Piana you're refering to. Their mid-town New York store is just around the corner from me on 66th and Madison Ave.

Owning a Paul Smith cap from circa 1990, I can attest to the quality of that wool assuming its the same batch.