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Publication: Godey's Lady's Book
Date: April, 1862
SCIENCE OF DRESS-CUTTING.
DID any of our readers ever suffer the tortures of dress-cutting by the old-fashioned method? Did they ever obtain possession, after long and patient waiting, of a handsome and coveted pattern for a silk dress, and, putting themselves into the hands of a dress-maker in whom they had not entire confidence, submit to be pinned up in a newspaper, and, in terror and torture, gagged here and there, under the pretence of being “cut out?” Doubtless they have, and must remember the cramped armhole, the flattened, compressed bust, the straight waist, without curve or line, which the self-satisfied modiste flattered herself was such an excellent “fit.” Some such experiences as these, and the conviction that scientific and mechanical rules could be applied to the human figure with better chances of success than an uncertain and indefinite method, whose grace and beauty of form depended entirely on individual taste, originated Madame Demorest's model of dress-cutting, a system which is founded absolutely on scientific principles, which is as accurate and unfailing as the art of the photographer, which is easily comprehended by a child who knows its letter; and the signs of numerals can be adapted to all the changes and caprices of fashion, and enables any lady possessing a model to make her own dresses perfectly, without the trouble or necessity of “fitting,” which always forms an insuperable obstacle. We will now proceed to give some very plain directions for the use of the model, premising that the first measure should be taken by some other person than the one for whom the dress is intended; the number of inches for shoulder, length and size of waist, etc., having been ascertained, can be used, of course, on all future occasions.
HOW TO USE THE MODEL.
Lay on the table a large sheet of stiff white or brown paper, and upon it lay the model; have ready a card or a slip of paper, and pencil; and then, taking a tape measure in the thumb and forefinger of your left hand, make the person to be measured stand straight up, with her back toward you. Commence by placing the end of the tape at the bone of the neck, bringing it down under the right arm, closely, and round up over the top of the shoulder, until it meets at the same point where it begun. Now mark down the number of inches, say twenty-four, for the shoulder. Hold the tape to the same place again, and measure down the length of waist, allowing half an inch for what it will take up in making. Mark that down, also, say fifteen and a half inches. Now place the measure across the fullest part of the bust, drawing it round under the arms loosely, so as to give freedom to the chest, and allowing an inch for padding, if it is desirable. Mark down the number of inches, say thirty-seven and a half, for the bust measure. Last, take the measure tightly round the waist— most people like to feel the support of some slight compression there; and then mark down the number of inches, twenty-three for the waist, and you will find yourself possessed of the following table:—
No. of inches.
1. Shoulder measure 24
2. Length of Waist l5˝
3.Bust measure 37˝
4.Size round the Waist 23
This is an exact and well-proportioned measurement for a good-sized, full-developed person. Now examine the model which lies on the sheet of paper before you (the diagram which accompanies these instructions will answer just as well for the purposes of illustration), and note the figures, which commence at 20, as the smallest size, and 31, which is set down as the largest. With the pencil make a dot through the holes in the chart on the paper, at each number, marked twenty-four, and also at the bottom of the back, through the hole left for that purpose. These dots will carry you across the lines for the neck, shoulders, arm-size, and arm-seam, as indicated in the engraving; then, with your tape measure ascertaining the accurate length of waist, you may draw a straight line across, and the back part of the body is sufficiently defined to cut out a correct paper pattern . You may draw lines from dot to dot, to enable you to cut it more accurately, as indicated in the following engraving:—
For the front use the same No. 24, make a dot on the paper through the holes in the model at each twenty-four in the same way as for the back, and you will have an outline for the neck, shoulders, arm-size, and under the arm. Now obtain the front seam, and the easiest way to do it is to double the bust measure (37˝ inches), and take off the measure of the back from one-half, then lay the balance across the bust, and draw the line straight down. To get the length of the waist, rest the pencil on the point under the arm, and sweep a line round to the highest point on the shoulder; this will make a straight waist; if it requires to be pointed, draw the line to the middle hole in the neck of the chart, between the shoulder and the front, and if it wants to be very deeply pointed, to the lowest hole in the neck, directly in front. To find out the quantity to be taken up in gores, take half the waist measure, subtract from it the size across the back, and take up the difference in the gores or “dart” seams. If the waist is slender, divide the surplus into three darts, if not, two will be sufficient. The first dart should be about one inch and a quarter from the line of the front, at a slope of two and a half inches. Get the size of the second dart seam, and then draw a line parallel between the first and second, three-quarters of an inch in width, so also the third; if three are taken, use the curved end of the rule (which accompanies the model) to point the dart seams, and then cut out your pattern exactly in the outside line drawn. Lay the dart seams together, and slope them off to a point, and the pattern will be complete. It will be seen that the pattern allows for no turnings in, the size of these being left optional with the individual, who can allow more or less, as she pleases, in cutting out the lining. The models of Dress-cutting, with full instructions, are furnished at $1 each, or $6 per dozen; and are sent by mail, postage free, on receipt of price. For which address Madame Demorest, 473 Broadway, New York. In some future number we propose to furnish full directions for cutting children's dresses by Madame Demorest's children's dress chart.
Just thought this might be interesting to others, too.
Date: April, 1862
SCIENCE OF DRESS-CUTTING.
DID any of our readers ever suffer the tortures of dress-cutting by the old-fashioned method? Did they ever obtain possession, after long and patient waiting, of a handsome and coveted pattern for a silk dress, and, putting themselves into the hands of a dress-maker in whom they had not entire confidence, submit to be pinned up in a newspaper, and, in terror and torture, gagged here and there, under the pretence of being “cut out?” Doubtless they have, and must remember the cramped armhole, the flattened, compressed bust, the straight waist, without curve or line, which the self-satisfied modiste flattered herself was such an excellent “fit.” Some such experiences as these, and the conviction that scientific and mechanical rules could be applied to the human figure with better chances of success than an uncertain and indefinite method, whose grace and beauty of form depended entirely on individual taste, originated Madame Demorest's model of dress-cutting, a system which is founded absolutely on scientific principles, which is as accurate and unfailing as the art of the photographer, which is easily comprehended by a child who knows its letter; and the signs of numerals can be adapted to all the changes and caprices of fashion, and enables any lady possessing a model to make her own dresses perfectly, without the trouble or necessity of “fitting,” which always forms an insuperable obstacle. We will now proceed to give some very plain directions for the use of the model, premising that the first measure should be taken by some other person than the one for whom the dress is intended; the number of inches for shoulder, length and size of waist, etc., having been ascertained, can be used, of course, on all future occasions.
HOW TO USE THE MODEL.
Lay on the table a large sheet of stiff white or brown paper, and upon it lay the model; have ready a card or a slip of paper, and pencil; and then, taking a tape measure in the thumb and forefinger of your left hand, make the person to be measured stand straight up, with her back toward you. Commence by placing the end of the tape at the bone of the neck, bringing it down under the right arm, closely, and round up over the top of the shoulder, until it meets at the same point where it begun. Now mark down the number of inches, say twenty-four, for the shoulder. Hold the tape to the same place again, and measure down the length of waist, allowing half an inch for what it will take up in making. Mark that down, also, say fifteen and a half inches. Now place the measure across the fullest part of the bust, drawing it round under the arms loosely, so as to give freedom to the chest, and allowing an inch for padding, if it is desirable. Mark down the number of inches, say thirty-seven and a half, for the bust measure. Last, take the measure tightly round the waist— most people like to feel the support of some slight compression there; and then mark down the number of inches, twenty-three for the waist, and you will find yourself possessed of the following table:—
No. of inches.
1. Shoulder measure 24
2. Length of Waist l5˝
3.Bust measure 37˝
4.Size round the Waist 23
This is an exact and well-proportioned measurement for a good-sized, full-developed person. Now examine the model which lies on the sheet of paper before you (the diagram which accompanies these instructions will answer just as well for the purposes of illustration), and note the figures, which commence at 20, as the smallest size, and 31, which is set down as the largest. With the pencil make a dot through the holes in the chart on the paper, at each number, marked twenty-four, and also at the bottom of the back, through the hole left for that purpose. These dots will carry you across the lines for the neck, shoulders, arm-size, and arm-seam, as indicated in the engraving; then, with your tape measure ascertaining the accurate length of waist, you may draw a straight line across, and the back part of the body is sufficiently defined to cut out a correct paper pattern . You may draw lines from dot to dot, to enable you to cut it more accurately, as indicated in the following engraving:—
For the front use the same No. 24, make a dot on the paper through the holes in the model at each twenty-four in the same way as for the back, and you will have an outline for the neck, shoulders, arm-size, and under the arm. Now obtain the front seam, and the easiest way to do it is to double the bust measure (37˝ inches), and take off the measure of the back from one-half, then lay the balance across the bust, and draw the line straight down. To get the length of the waist, rest the pencil on the point under the arm, and sweep a line round to the highest point on the shoulder; this will make a straight waist; if it requires to be pointed, draw the line to the middle hole in the neck of the chart, between the shoulder and the front, and if it wants to be very deeply pointed, to the lowest hole in the neck, directly in front. To find out the quantity to be taken up in gores, take half the waist measure, subtract from it the size across the back, and take up the difference in the gores or “dart” seams. If the waist is slender, divide the surplus into three darts, if not, two will be sufficient. The first dart should be about one inch and a quarter from the line of the front, at a slope of two and a half inches. Get the size of the second dart seam, and then draw a line parallel between the first and second, three-quarters of an inch in width, so also the third; if three are taken, use the curved end of the rule (which accompanies the model) to point the dart seams, and then cut out your pattern exactly in the outside line drawn. Lay the dart seams together, and slope them off to a point, and the pattern will be complete. It will be seen that the pattern allows for no turnings in, the size of these being left optional with the individual, who can allow more or less, as she pleases, in cutting out the lining. The models of Dress-cutting, with full instructions, are furnished at $1 each, or $6 per dozen; and are sent by mail, postage free, on receipt of price. For which address Madame Demorest, 473 Broadway, New York. In some future number we propose to furnish full directions for cutting children's dresses by Madame Demorest's children's dress chart.
Just thought this might be interesting to others, too.
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