Charles Dickens Question

[Mark Lewis]

Is the outher garment he's wearing a banyan? Date is 1859.

[Johnny Lloyd]

Re: Charles Dickens Question

Yes. Also known as "robe de chambre", "morning dress" or "nightgown"... forerunner of the Snuggee. ;)

"...Later the banyan evolved into a more fitted style with set-in sleeves similar to a man's coat. The banyan was made available in many different lengths and shapes with different cuts and styles. After the 19th century, the name of the 'banyan' also evolved to become the 'dressing gown' of today." http://ezinearticles.com/?History-of...own&id=5037905

It is logical that in the depiction of Dickens in his office writing, he would be comfortable as possible. All he would have to do to leave the house is take-off the banyan, don his jacket, vest and hat and be out the door to do business elsewhere. His banyan reflects the evolved state the banyan eventually went into during the mid-19th century- towards a men's coatlike look rather than resemble Oriental robes like earlier forms of the garment did.

Hope it helps. -Johnny

[Spinster]

Re: Charles Dickens Question

Johnny,

By the 1860's, was the banyan strictly an 'at home' garment?

I'm intrigued, having seen a group of Scot men, depicting a period just pre-statehood in Alabama, wearing calf length banyans printed with flowers and birds topped by quilted velvet smoking caps--jaunting off down the pennisula, period golf clubs in hand. They had a diary entry to support such a fine endeavour.

[Johnny Lloyd]

Re: Charles Dickens Question

Johnny,

By the 1860's, was the banyan strictly an 'at home' garment?

I'm intrigued, having seen a group of Scot men, depicting a period just pre-statehood in Alabama, wearing calf length banyans printed with flowers and birds topped by quilted velvet smoking caps--jaunting off down the pennisula, period golf clubs in hand. They had a diary entry to support such a fine endeavour.

Good question. Seems that research that I can find addresses that the garment was only for informal meetings around the house. Perhaps this was regional-specific, for I couldn't see a London gentleman like Dickens doing what those Alabama Scots were doing that you referred to. That is conjecture, of course, Aunt Tilly. ;)

[Elaine Kessinger]

Re: Charles Dickens Question

Might this also be a velvet smoking jacket... it looks a bit short for a banyan/dressing robe. And flowers and birds were very popular motifs in the 1850s & 60s. Paisley may have been the most popular print choice, but it doesn't mean it's the only one.

[Carolann Schmitt]

Re: Charles Dickens Question

Men's mid-19th century leisure attire is a particular interest of mine. I did a presentation on it at the 1860s Conference a few years ago and have taught classes on its construction. The source Mr. Lloyd posted is very general, rather vague and makes several assumptions that are not correct.

The term "banyan" properly refers to a T-shaped garment that originated in the late 17th/early 18th century. It was popularized by Dutch traders returning from the Far East. The cut of the garment begins to change in the early 19th century when it begins to follow the general lines of men's coats. The term "banyan" disappears from common use in the late 1830s-early 1840s.

The cut of the garment continues to evolve during the late 1840s through the 1860s, still following the change in styles in men's coats. The name changes during the same time, with dressing gown, house robe, invalid gown and wrapper all being used. Dressing gown and wrapper are the most common terms found in primary sources c.1855-1865. The cut is loose and may be slightly flared, with a slightly dropped shoulder, coat sleeve, approximately mid-calf in length. Collar shapes vary and are usually worn open with turned back lapels. One of the more common fabrics used during this period is a printed cotton/wool twill. Wool, silk, wool/silk and cotton fabrics were also used. The fabrics are most often very bright and very gaudy; paisley is the most popular pattern, but other florals, floral stripes and solid colors also can be found. Linings are equally bright and gaudy, do NOT match or blend with with the outer fabric, and are often quilted to wool batting. Contrasting lapels, pocket flaps and cuffs are frequently found. Closures are usually fabric-covered buttons and button holes, often incorporated into a strap closure. Self-fabric belts or cord belts were occasionally worn.

In the decades after the war the general cut of the garment remains the same but it shortens to hip-length. The term "smoking jacket" comes into common use and continues today.

Dressing gowns were not just for indoor wear. In the 18th and early 19th centuries it was common to see them on the street, usually worn by prominent and well-respected men in the community. Mid-19th century travelers and guests at hotels and spas wore them to breakfast and in public lounging rooms at the end of the day. There is a photograph of a group of young wearing them on a picnic, and other of a member of the Christian (Sanitary?) Commission wearing one in camp on the Virigina peninsula. I have primary sources of them being worn in military camps, hunting camps, at private clubs and - of course - at home. It would not be that unusual to find the scene Mrs. Lawson mentioned taking place in almost any area of this country. (Mrs. Lawson - I would love to know more about that diary entry.)

Dressing gowns were a popular gift for a wife or daughter to give a gentleman, usually accompanied by a smoking cap and slippers. There are countless mentions of dressing gowns in period magazines, journals, diaries and letters. Cutting diagrams for them appear in tailoring manuals; patterns for them were supplied by various relief agencies. They were very common and widely-worn by men from all socio-economic classes.

I have several dressing gowns in my collection including a child's and know of many others in other private collections. We will have 15+ on display at this year's Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference in March.

The garment Mr. Dickens is wearing appears to be made from silk plush. The turned-back cuffs showing the quilted lining indicates it is some form of leisure garment. It appears to be a bit short for a dressing gown, but that could be due to the pose or his personal preference for length. It could also be another type of at-home garment. I don't have my reference library at hand to investigate further.

Regards,
Carolann Schmitt

[Emmanuel Dabney]

Re: Charles Dickens Question

Unfortunately, not enough men attend the Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s conference. In years past, as Carolann pointed out, she has given programs with dozens of images of men in dressing gowns, slippers, etc. There is no better opportunity to see original clothing (men, women, children) and be able to measure and photograph (with permission) the very things in question here.

[Mark Lewis]

Re: Charles Dickens Question

I appreciate all the comments and info. Having been an 18th c. Living Historian for many years I was quite familiar with the banyan, but the buttons and style of the garment in the picture made me want to know more about it.