Federal Great Coat Button Size

[Bryan_C]

I just got a Federal great coat, used and by an unknown maker, though the weave of the wool appears the same as the Jarnigan trousers I have. The coats buttons are medium size eagles. I'm thinking of replacing these with large size eagle buttons but I just wanted to verify if the large size is correct before I do this. Thanks.

[Silas]

Re: Federal Great Coat Button Size

Welcome to the forum, Mr. Cheeseboro. Although this is your first post, you've been a member for four and a half years. By now, you should have realized that signing your posts with your full name is a cardinal rule of the forum. Please take this as an opportunity to review other rules of the forum. A link below my signature line will take you there.

Regarding buttons, size for the body should be large aka coat buttons. Size for the cape are the small or cuff buttons.

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Federal Great Coat Button Size

Hallo!

In brief... nominally....

Federal fatigue coat "large" buttons were 3/8 inch. Greatcoat "large" buttons were 5/8th.

Curt

[Silas]

Re: Federal Great Coat Button Size

My recollection is actually : small for cuff size ; large for fatigue jackets ; and coat for greatcoats. Makes it difficult to purchase buttons in the current day as a large then is a medium now. Telling a vendor you want large buttons can get you mediums. Best to state the purpose when ordering.

[Bryan_C]

Re: Federal Great Coat Button Size

My recollection is actually : small for cuff size ; large for fatigue jackets ; and coat for greatcoats. Makes it difficult to purchase buttons in the current day as a large then is a medium now. Telling a vendor you want large buttons can get you mediums. Best to state the purpose when ordering.

Thanks for the answers. I'm guessing you meant to type "large" for great coats. Anyway, I think I'm going to make the switch and put the large buttons on. I imagine there were some cases where a smaller button was used on some great coats but I think the larger buttons look better on the coat.

[Jimmayo]

Re: Federal Great Coat Button Size

Hope you have a good source for the large buttons as they seem hard to find. Having hunted in Petersburg for many years I found only two of the large size eagle and they were found together in a camp. Have you looked at original surviving coats to determine what was used? Here is a pic of the two large and a regular sack coat button.

[CompanyWag]

Re: Federal Great Coat Button Size

There were just two issue sizes of buttons for federal enlisted clothing: large and small. Great coats, sack coats and uniform coats (aka frock coats) all used the same "large" size on the front closure. (Cuff size were used on cuffs and capes of course as well as mounted services jackets.) I own three original great coats (two footman's and one mounted) that all conform to this. The oversize 7/8" buttons usually are officer buttons with the branch of service letter on the shield. The oversize general service button is quite rare and in my thinking, not representative of the norm. In my opinion, it should be avoided.

[rake]

Re: Federal Great Coat Button Size

From the Denmark collection:

The size of coat button changed in March of 1861 from 3/4 inch to 7/8 inch, the same size as for officers. So, like the change from dark blue trousers to sky blue, the transition would occur over time, and much slower with the overcoat, as the garment was supposed to last the 5 year enlistment.

[CompanyWag]

Re: Federal Great Coat Button Size

Tommy,
You are correct that 7/8 inch was specified in 1861, but please provide a reference for where enlisted buttons were ever specified as 3/4 inch prior to the revised regulations.

I looked at the 1857 Regulations, and the sizes specified are the same as per 1861 Revised Regulations as well as the 1851 Regulations:

1408 For Officers of Artillery, Infantry, Riflemen, Cavalry, and Dragoons —
gilt, convex ; device, a spread eagle with the letter A, for Artillery— I, for Infantry— R, for Riflemen— C, for Cavalry— D, for Dragoons, on the shield ; large size, seven eighths of an inch in ex-
terior diameter ; small size, one half inch.

1410 For all enlisted men —
yellow, the same as is used by the Artillery, &c., omitting the letter in the shield.

In all cases, there are only two sizes specified: Large and Small. In no case is a unique button specified for great coats.

In the 1865 Quartermaster manual, Chapter 10, Crosman specifies the following for enlisted clothing:
Uniform Coat: 11 coat buttons; 4 vest buttons
Blouses: 4 brass coat buttons
Great coats for footmen: 6 coat buttons; 6 vest buttons

Again, only two sizes of buttons. The fatigue blouse, the uniform coat and the great coat all used the same button.