Cleaning My Weapon

[cprljohnivey]

Re: Notes On The Ram Rod Stuck In The Barrel Problem

Since I use a Springfield I don't know the answer to this but what is the tool slot actually for on an Enfield rammer?

Thanks,

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Notes On The Ram Rod Stuck In The Barrel Problem

Hallo!

In brief and to over-generalize...

The slot is where the "Y" or "T" arm of the various pattern "Enfield" combination tools was inserted to get more "torque" when using the ball puller/ball screw.

However, I just looked for it but could not find it quickly, there is one reference in a British militia instructions that talks about using the slot for patching. (I am not sure why as it would take a much larger than normal "patch concept" not to fall out in bore use.)
If I can retrieve it I will post it later.

Curt

[cprljohnivey]

Re: Notes On The Ram Rod Stuck In The Barrel Problem

Thanks Curt. I suspected that had something to do with it.

Thanks,

[Uncle Pig]

Re: Notes On The Ram Rod Stuck In The Barrel Problem

A few years ago we had a similar topic. Some one had a reference to the slot in the rammer being used in India. Apparently they kept a rag in the slot and wipped the bore each time they rammed. At least that is what I remember being posted.

Thanks,
Mark C. Foster

[jacobite8749]

Re: Notes On The Ram Rod Stuck In The Barrel Problem

It is used for greater "torque", but it is used to clean. The standard British cleaning patch is (and was) a piece of 4x2, four by two. Modern stuff comes on a roll, and is a perfect size for the slot. I tend to screw the "Enfield" combination tool onto the end of the rammer so as to gain great grip when cleaning.

I think the info you are after Mr.Schmidt comes from a Parker Hale booklet, or perhaps the Arms & Equipment of the British Army, 1866

[yipper]

Re: Notes On The Ram Rod Stuck In The Barrel Problem

Gents,

From “Drill and Rifle Instruction for the Corps of Rifle Volunteers”, by authority of the Secretary of State for War, 1860, Seventh Edition, W. Clowes and Sons, p.61:

Every volunteer should learn the way to clean his rifle.
1. Place the rifle at full cock, and draw the ramrod.
2. Put a piece of rag, woolen if possible, or tow, into the jag, and twist it round so as to cover it….

This has bearing on the other thread regarding the Enfield combination tool http://www.authentic-campaigner.com/...ad.php?t=13433
The wiper included with the Blockade Runner copy of this implement is sufficiently tight within the bore as to prevent its use with a patch for barrel cleaning. The above passage suggests the wiper was not intended for such use.

The question is whether the dimensions of the reproduction are accurate. Still hoping that someone possessing, or with access to, an original can verify this.

Regards,

geoffrey lehmann

[wsjax4]

Cleaning my weapon

I recently purchased a ’61 Springfield from a seller on these boards. I need some tips for cleaning and maintaining this weapon. I’m a hunter and own quite a few guns so I know what I’m doing but I’m looking for some dos and don’ts with a muzzle loader. Your help is greatly appreciated.

[MLovejoy]

Re: Cleaning my weapon

Something members in my unit learned from doing living histories at the Springfield Armory (the obvious maker of your weapon) is to make a solution of 1 part Murphy's Oil Soap, 1 part Rubbing Alcohol, and 1 part Hydrogen Peroxide. Pour that down the barrel and let it sit for a few minutes, dump it out, and repeat. Block off the nipple so the solution doesn't spray out. Immediately following pour hot water down the barrel to stop the corrosive agents in the solution.


The head man at the armory taught us that one, and if anyone knows these weapons I'm sure it's him. It also helps in softening up the cap residue behind the vent screw for easier cleaning of that area. I do that after every event.

[GWagner]

Re: Cleaning my weapon

Hydrogen peroxide and murphys oil soap. Mix even parts. Store in a dark bottle.

I use it to scub the barrell out. Just pour it in with a peice of leather over the nipple with the hammer closed. Run your ram rod with a patch on in it and out, repeat until the mixture comes out clean. Pour in hot water, half cock the hammer, put on a clean patch and run it in and out until all the hot water exits through the nipple. Allow to dry and run a lightly oiled patch in and out.

Clean the outside with some light steel wool and oil.

Voila!

[Curt Schmidt]

Re: Cleaning my weapon

Hallo!

Herr Scott... please do not forget the wonders of the SEARCH function.

While there are many popular modern methods for modern cleaning, I would again point to the "historical:"

"From Rules for the Management and Cleaning of the Rifle Musket, Model 1861, for the Use of Soldiers (applies to the Springfield Models 1855, 1861, and 1863, and more generally to the Enfield Models 1853 and 1858), under "Rules for Cleaning":

It is not essential for the musket to be dismounted {disassembled} every time that it is cleaned; for, after firing it in fine weather, or when there has been no chance for the wet to get between the barrel and the stock, it can be perfectly cleaned in the following manner.

1st. Put a piece of rag or soft leather on the top of the cone, and let the hammer down upon it; pour a gill of water into the muzzle carefully, so that it does not run down the outside; put a plug of wood into the muzzle, and shake the gun up and down, changing the water repeatedly until it comes out clear. When clear, withdraw the leather, and stand the musket on the muzzle for a few moments; then wipe out the barrel (as given in the second rule for cleaning {see below}), and also wipe the exterior of the lock and the outside of the barrel around the cone and cone-seat first with a damp rag, and then with a dry one, and lastly with a rag that has been slightly oiled. In this way, all the dirt due to the firing may be removed without taking out a screw.

2nd. Screw the wiper on to the end of the ramrod, and put a piece of dry cloth, or tow, round it, sufficient to keep it from chafing the grooves of the barrel; wipe the barrel quite dry, changing or drying the cloth two or three times.

3d. Put no oil into the vent, as it will clog the passage, and cause the first primer to miss fire; but, with a slightly oiled rag on the wiper, rub the bore of the barrel,... and immediately insert the tompion into the muzzle."

Regarding cleaning, Congdon's Cavalry Compendium ,1864, says says (pp. 36-37):

THE CARBINE

"The carbine should be kept in the condition which it was received from the armory. It should never be taken apart to clean, except when absolutely necessary, and with express permission of the company commander. The barrel should never be polished. The lock should never be taken apart, except by an armorer. After firing, the carbine should be cleaned with warm water, dried, and slightly oiled. Any infrigement of these instructions should be severely punished; because the rendering of a fire-arm unfit for use is one of the gravest offences an enlisted man can commit.

THE REVOLVER
The revolver is cleaned in the same manner as the carbine. The trooper should always know the number of his revolver. When ordered on any detached duty (without arms), he should place his arms in charge of the orderly sergeant, who is obliged to take charge of them and give the owner a receipt for the same.

At night, near the enemy, it is advisable to sleep with the arms under the head, unless otherwise ordered."

THE SABRE
The sabre should be kept clean and bright; the edge as sharp as possible. It is the trooper's best and most trusty weapon. If the sabre is rusty or dull, observers will justly think that its owner will never have the courage to wield it.

The scabbard should be kept clean and free from rust, but not polished.

Sperm or sweet oil and flour of emery should be used in cleaning the sabre and scabbard. Beef-marrow is good to keep them from rusting."

For more "barracks" type cleaning, as well as some field use, for every so many rifles the contractor included wooden "wiping sticks."

Curt

[Gary of CA]

Re: Cleaning my weapon

Here's some period advice on rust. I thought you guys may be interested.

Rust on Guns.

In keeping a gun from rust always use animal oil and never let a gun remain rusty long. If a soldier wants to clean a rusty gun, he should first procure fine sand, which is easy obtained after a rain in water courses, mix it with oil, then scour all the rust off, if any rust remains it is apt to poison the iron and cannot be got off without great labor. Perspiration is a great enemy to iron; a soft tallow candle is good to prevent rust, and to kill rust first rub the rusty place with tallow, then put it in the sun shine, when it gets warm then rub the rust off, if the rust leaves a stain or holes always scour it out—lard oil is the best oil we can procure now. Always after a days shooting wash your gun out, wipe it dry inside and outside, then if the sun is shining put it in the sunshine and when warm wipe with a little oil; it is bad to oil the inside too much, for it will dampen the powder and render the gun useless until the charge is drawn; when the ball is drawn fill the barrel with water and let it remain for a quarter of an hour and then you can wash all out. One oiled rag can be used many times without adding oil to it, always prevent the air if possible, from getting inside of your rifle. I wish to give our soldiers as good advise [sic] as I can, hoping my advise [sic] will benefit them. Although old and not in the field, I wish to help as much as possible, and in a few days you will hear from me again.
H.
I fully endorse the above as my experience in rifle shooting, &c.
E. H. Rogers.

DAILY CONSTITUTIONALIST [AUGUSTA, GA], July 9, 1864, p. 2, c. 1